HONGKONG has a long-established affinity with France in terms of cognac consumption. The territory is often said to be the biggest per capita consumer of the spirit in the world - an honour which in fact falls to Vatican City. But even if it is denied that statistical distinction it remains an enormously important cognac market.
Actual cognac consumption in Hongkong is in fact declining but an XO, or at the very least a VSOP, remains an essential part of any Hongkong celebration.
The reasons for this popularity are shrouded in myth. One theory has it that when the British colonisers first arrived in Hongkong cognac was the preferred drink of the senior naval officers and therefore acquired a special cachet.
Certainly a mythology has been built around it since. In certain circles Cognac is deemed to be an aphrodisiac, notwithstanding all the evidence to the contrary, while whisky is considered to have the opposite effect.
Drink either in sufficient quantities and the distinction becomes academic, but the belief still affects relative sales of the two spirits.
Cognac has a long and distinguished history. It is made from distilled wine from a delimited area in the Charente region, and has been since the 17th century.
The same technique was used in other regions, but brandy from the Charente district became known for its quality and in the 18th century the term ''cognac'' came into general use to describe it.