FLORA Cheong-Leen looked as if she had been poured into her white bell-bottoms. But not the matching jacket. ''Size 36,'' said the ex-dancer, ex-model, designer. ''Bigger jackets sit so much better.'' Has the trim, terrific body which once graced Britain's Royal Ballet been expanding lately? Not so you'd notice without the aid of a magnifying glass.
On the other hand, her clientele in China has been growing. And like Flora, the mainlanders just love that roomy feeling, if for somewhat different reasons.
''They figure that because more fabric and labour have gone into a garment, they're getting better value for money. Then there's the modesty thing - loose clothes are less revealing. What they don't like is pure, natural fabrics like silk or linen which wrinkle easily and are hard to clean.
''The first thing Chinese customers do is crush the material to see if it keeps its shape. That's why they prefer blended fabrics and synthetics.'' Is it possible that behind the thrice-married social butterfly lurks an astute businesswoman who has done her market research? Why not; she's been in the rag-trade for more than a decade. And if you want proof, just look at Flora Cheong-Leen's current Summer 93 collection for her Pavlova shops.
They are aeons removed from the current vogue for pared-down classics in neutral colours. Agreed, Cheong-Leen has her share of flowing numbers in black, white, beige et al. But you will grow old before you find a Pavlova outfit that is unadorned, and forevery neutral there are loads of colours.
Flares with bows at the knee, blouses loaded with ruffles, suits edged in bold braid, eveningwear that spells frou-frou from neck to hem, combinations like yellow and kingfisher blue. Frankly, no one over 25 should be seen dead in those clothes.