LISTENERS to a Hangzhou radio station were quite emphatic when polled about the most-recognised names in the lakeside city . . . Mao Zedong, Marlboro and Have-a-Bite.
The last in the list is hardly likely to strike much of an international chord, but among Hangzhou people, the Have-a-Bite has become an institution, for many years the only place in town which served Western-style fast food.
Ironically, Hangzhou was one of the first settlements in China to be introduced to European-style fare; gourmet globetrotter Marco Polo passed through in the 13th century on one of his leisurely jaunts around the world.
The argument still rages among some foodies as to whether the peripatetic Italian brought pasta to China - or whether the explorer sneaked the noodle recipe back to his own country.
It is not a topic which engages Hangzhou people for any length of time - they are far too busy wolfing down the Have-A-Bite food; the restaurant serves a total of 4,000 people a day, around 500 of them opting for the house speciality of miniature pizza.
Have-a-Bite is actually located in - and run by - the Shangri-La hotel, drawing on the expertise of international chefs such as Singaporean Lawrence Foo. But its separate entrance and lack of promotion among in-house guests, means the majority of customers are locals.
''I have adapted the taste slightly for the local palate, using cumin and other Asian spices,'' says chef Foo. ''It is something different for people; they say it is good food and makes them full. On a hot day we sell 2,000 ice creams. We get every age group coming in.