The family-owned Hugel winery in Alsace, France, is a member of two extraordinary clubs. The first is the Primum Familiae Vini (PFV), the 'first families of wine', an international association limited to a maximum of 12 winemaking families. Membership is by invitation only and fellow members include Mouton Rothschild, Robert Mondavi, Piero Antinori, Miguel Torres and Robert Drouhin. These winemakers are widely regarded as being among the most prestigious producers within their region.
The PFV has a charter to promote and defend the moral values that are the backbone of family businesses, exchange winemaking knowledge and promote traditional methods that underline the quality of the wine and respect for terroir.
The Hugels' other membership dues are paid to the Association les Henokiens, comprising a group of almost 30 family-owned businesses from around the world.
Their distinguishing feature is that they must be at least 200 years old and still managed by the founder's descendants, who are either the owners or the principal majority shareholders. The other requirement of having a healthy bank balance makes for an elite club. Fellow Henokiens include the Beretta family (gun manufacturers) from Italy and the Gekkeikan Sake Company, which has been brewing Japan's national drink for the past 360 years. The Hugel family has been the pre-eminent wine producer in Alsace since 1639 so it is more than qualified for both these clubs.
Grapes have been grown in Alsace for more than 2,000 years. During the Middle Ages, wine production made this corner of northeastern France a prosperous region; indeed until the early 16th century, Alsace was the largest wine region in the Germanic Holy Roman Empire. Over the intervening centuries, many wars (including the Franco-Prussian War in 1870) resulted in the decline of this region's vinous importance.
In 1918, Alsace once again became French territory and a small number of wine producers decided to restore its vineyards. One of these was Frederic Emile Hugel, who devoted his life to regaining glory for this region. His three sons and grandchildren have continued his mission and Hugel's wines enjoy an enviable international reputation.