RODOLFO D'ACQUAVIVA, a 17th-century poet, wrote: 'Montepulciano, a town set at the centre of the Etruscan land high on a hilltop. From the top you can see a hundred towns and a hundred castles, vines arranged in orderly rows, fertile lands, ample fields and a string of hills adorned by the everlasting foliage of a thousand olive trees. The greatest delight, however, in this happy place, and its highest glory, come from the generous vines, with their lush leaves and their sweet grapes.'
Little has changed today. There are still splendid views of castles, vineyards and olive groves from the fortress town and wine is available in abundance. It is even unnecessary to leave the town in order to taste the local wines. Many producers have set up shop in Montepulciano and offer tastings. Otherwise it is necessary to phone ahead to make an appointment to visit.
The most important wine of the area is Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano. It is made with sangiovese (known locally as prugnolo gentile) and canaiolo nero, and with the possible addition of other grapes up to a maximum of 20 per cent. Confusingly, it is not made from the Montepulciano grape, which is not a permitted varietal in this region. The origins of this superb red wine go back to the 14th century. The term 'nobile', or noble, seems to have been derived not only from the wine's finesse but also from the fact its production was tended to by the district's noble families. Riservas are aged for a minimum of three years. There is also a Rosso di Montepulciano, which is made from the same grapes but aged less and sold younger. The introduction of the Rosso led to considerable improvement in the Vino Nobile because only the best grapes are now used in the latter wine.
Lesser known but well worth sampling is Vinsanto Di Montepulciano, which is made from malvasia bianco, grechetto bianco (known locally as pulcinculo) or trebbiano toscano with the possible addition of other non-aromatic, white varieties of the zone. The grapes are selected, dried - usually on reed mats - and pressed between December 1 of the year of harvest and February 28 of the following year. The wine's colour ranges from an intense golden-yellow to amber. The minimum alcohol level is 17 per cent.
Cantina de Redi (tel: [0578] 757 102) in the main street of Montepulciano is one of the town's highlights. This wine cellar was originally built in 1337. Visitors descend several hundred metres from the main street through a labyrinth of cellars and staircases and are finally rewarded by reaching the tasting room. There, a number of wines can be sampled free of charge including an excellent 1993 Vinsanto Toscana and, of course, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.
Also in the main street is Enoteca del Cerro (tel: [0578] 767 722), where wines may be tasted and purchased. The shop is situated in the restored cellars of the renaissance Benincasa Palace. The Fattoria del Cerro winery at Acquaviva is part of the Saiagricola empire. One of its best wines is Poggio Golo, a merlot, a varietal that does well on its own or when blended with sangiovese.
Fattoria di Gracciano Svetoni (tel: [0578] 708 676) was purchased a decade ago by the Folonari family who have invested heavily in vineyard plantings and in renovating buildings. Immaculately maintained, it is well worth a visit. Pancole, a Rosso di Montepulciano, and Calvano, a Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, are both clean, fruit-driven wines at reasonable prices.