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SCMP Reporter

Accommodation

For comfort, price and most importantly to me, convenience, the Sheraton Centre Toronto Hotel is near the top of the list. It is a welcome relief in winter with its access through a labyrinth of underground walkways to shopping centres such as Toronto Eaton Centre and The Bay department store; the Theatre District, and all the way to Front Street where the Canada National (CN) Tower is located. Also in winter, the rooms facing City Hall offer a nightly view of the brightly lit skating rink (123 Queen Street West, M5H 2M9. Tel: [1416] 361 1000; www.sheratontoronto.com).

Sightseeing

Niagara Falls is one of the natural wonders of the world and should not be missed, being only a two-hour drive from Toronto. Allow a day for the visit as there is lots to see in the area, including parks and historic sites. During winter the falls take on a different look with most of the area under snow (tel: [1800] 563 2557; www.city.niagarafalls.on.ca).

For something offbeat, try Haunted Toronto's two walking tours which run on week nights between 7pm and 10pm from July to October. They lead participants through downtown Toronto or the university area, pointing out spooky happenings. It's great fun (tel: [1416] 449 0356; www.ontarioghosts.org/walkingtours). The CN Tower, located in the downtown area, is the tallest free-standing structure in the world. Although the Toronto skyline is not the most striking in the world, the observation deck offers views of the metropolitan area for miles (tel: [1416] 868 6937; www.cntower.ca).

Activities

Few visitors take the opportunity to stop at one of the other great attractions in the area: the Niagara wine region. This is one of Canada's best wine areas, and is especially famous for its wonderful ice wines. Make an early evening stop at the Hillebrand Estates Winery (tel: [1905] 468 7123; www.hillebrand.com) and attend a one-hour vineyard tour which includes a tasting. End your day at the Vineyard Cafe overlooking the vines with views of the setting sun, and enjoy wines perfectly matched with your gourmet meal.

Paramount Canada's Wonderland, a short drive north of downtown Toronto, is Canada's very own amusement park, filled to the brim with thrills and spills for the young and young-at-heart. With names like Psyclone, Dragon Fire, Vortex and Shockwave, there is an ample supply of roller coasters, log flumes, giant free falls, giant slides, 3D movies, simulated rides and other heart-stopping, gut-wrenching discoveries. There are also separate sections dedicated to water theme attractions and to children. Check the hours of operation as they vary from month to month (www.canadas-wonderland.com).

Traditionally, the Canadian National Exhibition held annually for the 18 days prior to Labour Day (this year from August 16 to September 2), signifies the end of summer. 'The Ex' is one of the largest fairs of its kind in the world - a 142-hectare amusement park with entertainment, rides, buildings, sports and agriculture (www.theex.com).

Toronto has a professional baseball team called the Toronto Blue Jays, and home games are played at the SkyDome next to the CN Tower. During the summer, it is pleasant to catch a game from the seats at the SkyDeck (the uppermost section of the stadium), when the evenings are warm and the stadium roof is open, while enjoying beer and pizza. As the Jays aren't doing so well this summer, fans should have no problem buying tickets at the gate (www.bluejays.com).

In warmer weather, a pleasant and healthy day away from the city can be had by taking a short ferry ride from Mainland Ferry Terminal, across Lake Ontario to Toronto Island Park in Centre Island. Walk around the gardens, boardwalk and marina; hire a boat or a bicycle to tour the park; watch a game of softball or volleyball; or enjoy lunch with a view of the Toronto skyline across the lake. Pack a picnic as the food outlets at the park are uninspiring.

Strap on your rollerblades and hit the Don Valley trail. It goes on for kilometres before you finally end up in the Beaches, where you can browse through shops and pop into one of the many cool bistros and bars for a smoothie or beer.

Dining

For upscale comfort food try the brunch at the Rosedale Diner which serves delicious fare including eggs Dostoevsky (poached eggs, smoked salmon, orange hollandaise sauce served with frites) and the exquisite Rosedale burger (1164 Yonge Street. Tel: [1416] 923 3122).

Nightlife

Make sure you have drinks at the Panorama bar on the 51st floor of the Manulife Centre. It's not as high as the CN Tower, but you get a good view of the city and it's not as pricey (55 Bloor Street West. Tel: [1416] 967 0000).

The Theatre District is a good bet for quality entertainment. Current recommendations include The Lion King at the Princess of Wales and Mamma Mia! at the Royal Alexandra. All the theatres are conveniently located within a short walk of one another so it's possible to catch more than one show on the day (www.theatreintoronto.com).

Queen Street West on a Saturday is a must for shopping, people watching, eating and music. The Black Bull, for instance, is a great observation point, with a patio right on the strip (298 Queen Street West. Tel: [1416] 593 2766). My favourite place to eat, drink and listen to good reggae bands is Bamboo, just up from the Black Bull. Go early on a warm evening and grab a seat upstairs on the patio (312 Queen Street West. Tel: [1416] 593 5771).

When uptown, go to the Rebel House. It's a local favourite with its own beer and great poutine - french fries, cheese and gravy (1068 Yonge Street. Tel: [1416] 927 0704).

General

During winter, make sure you bring a warm coat for protection from the sub-zero conditions. In summer, meanwhile, temperatures can be as hot as Hong Kong, but humidity levels are much lower.

Coming up: Chiang Mai

Do you have any tips on travelling to Chiang Mai? What places are worth seeing or avoiding and what should visitors bring? Do you have any favourite hotels, restaurants, bars or shops? E-mail suggestions by Monday to travel@scmp.com or fax 2562 2485. The sender of every tip published will receive a Penguin Rough Guide of their choice.



Toronto