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Shirley Lau

17/F Lee Theatre Plaza

49 Hollywood Road, Central

Tel: 2545 9889

Open: noon-3pm, 6.30pm-11.30pm (weekend brunch available from noon-4pm)

The word aqua, which brings to mind sea breezes and ocean waves, is an apt choice as the name of this SoHo establishment. The atmosphere is airy and lively, thanks to the jazz music and the natural light that streams in. The granite and glass decor is simple but stylish, bringing out the best of the less-is-more philosophy.

The flexible weekend brunch allows diners to have only the dim sum buffet ($98), a two-course meal featuring dim sum and a main dish ($148), or three courses with dessert ($188). Knowing the place had been voted by local and foreign magazines as one of Hong Kong's top restaurants, we opted for the three-course meal to see if it merited the honour.

The dim sum, nicely presented on a high table opposite the stainless steel open kitchen, featured eight fusion items the size of sushi, created by Australian chef Greg Bunt. The overall result was nothing close to melt-in-the-mouth perfection, but some items were fairly tasty, such as the tea-smoked salmon with mango.

For the main course, my companion's roasted chicken was a let-down. Wrapped in tapenade and parma ham, the meat was chewy and tasted bland despite the basil sauce. But my well-cooked linguine with the flavourful prawns stole the show and lived up to the promise on the front cover of the menu: expect the unexpected.

For dessert, the ice cream, which came in three scoops of diners' choice, and the classic lemon tart with raspberries, all took credits for their look and flavour.

Open to the gaze of passers-by on Hollywood Road, Aqua should have made a perfect choice to while away a weekend afternoon. Unfortunately, the road work that began in May outside the premises blots out most of the view and occasionally the polluted air creeps into the restaurant through the door. If you are looking for the real simple and stylish experience, wait until October, when the work is expected to be completed.

The cost: Soft drinks and beer cost around $40, while wine by the glass is from $40-$80. Lunch for two was $420.



Aqua Restaurant & Bar