Some people consider a tuna sandwich comfort food, but this is one meal I really dislike: it reminds me too much of the school lunches my mother made during Lent (she alternated them with egg salad sandwiches). For a long time, I couldn't eat canned tuna. Fresh tuna is another story: I love it, as long as it's not overcooked. Seared tuna, still rare inside, has become commonplace on trendy menus and is one of the best ways to eat it. Raw - as sushi, carpaccio or tartare - is even better, but only if you can find top-quality fish. Because fresh tuna is so dense and meaty, it can be treated like a steak. For peppered tuna steaks, coarsely grind peppercorns (a mix of black and white is nice). Rub the fish with a little olive oil then sprinkle on coarse sea salt and the ground peppercorns on both sides, pressing to make them adhere. Heat oil in a pan and sear the tuna for one to two minutes on each side. This dish is good with a refreshing corn salsa. Boil ears of corn for five minutes, then cut the kernels from the cob. Toss with diced red pepper, minced spring onion and garlic, lime juice, fresh chilli to taste, chopped coriander, extra virgin olive oil and sea salt. Another good accompaniment is guacamole (mashed ripe avocado with fresh diced tomato, minced shallots, garlic, chilli and coriander). Salade Nicoise is also best made using fresh tuna. This looks best if you lay the ingredients out on a large platter or individual plates, instead of tossing everything together. Make a vinaigrette with fresh lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, Dijon mustard, minced shallots, chopped fresh herbs (parsley, thyme and basil), salt and pepper. Boil new potatoes until tender. Blanch green beans and boil eggs so the yolk is slightly soft inside. Sear lightly salted tuna until cooked to your liking. Toss salad greens lightly with some of the vinaigrette and lay them over the platter or individual plates. Slice the potatoes, toss them gently with the vinaigrette, then arrange in a mound over the greens. Toss the green beans with the vinaigrette, then lay them next to the potatoes, then repeat with the tuna (cut in thick slices), and fresh tomatoes cut in wedges, arranging everything in separate mounds. Garnish the dish with the peeled and quartered boiled eggs, whole Nicoise olives, capers, anchovies (optional), strips of raw red and yellow peppers and thinly sliced red onions. Add fresh herbs and serve with extra vinaigrette.