What's cool for a Paris catwalk is not so hot for Hong Kong cocktail crowd

IT'S entertaining to criticise fashion from the security of your living room, eating pizza in your heirloom sweat-suit. Those outrageous outfits from Paris, you groan, as you switch TV channels. And those leggy, cellulite-free sirens. What do they have in common with reality. When was the last time you ran into anyone, executing hair-pin turns in your face, in a Gianni Versace checker-board suit, striped stockings and lace-up granny boots? Truce, waves Belinda Kwan. Change the way you look at runway fashion photos. What is bought for Hong Kong - or what sells - isn't what parades across CNN, assures the senior manager of Gianni Versace boutiques. ''When you see those runway shows from Paris, you've got to remember, designers want to shock. He jazzes things up for the shows. It gets the camera. ''No one actually wears the suit with those stockings or accessories.'' Look at those photos critically. ''Take away the feathers and flowers. What Versace is selling is a basic suit. It's really versatile, but you have to look closely,'' she adds, waving a photo of a black and white suit from his autumn/winter 1993 collection. The body-hugging suit is also designed to be worn as separates. ''Adding a chiffon skirt or tights or leggings are merely suggestions,'' Kwan continues. As for the models in the Versace advertisement - wild and outlandish - Kwan smiles. ''Only 10 per cent of our customers here actually fall into the wild category. Hong Kong is pretty conservative. What's ''in'' for autumn/winter 1993 - or any season - is always a bit tamer than the clothes on the runway, assures Kwan. ''The dresses you see on television - slit to the waist - are never cut like that in production. No one would buy them. They're modified, slit to mid-thigh.'' ''Hong Kong women hate to bare their arms. That's why we never order too much sleeveless and buy lots of jackets. Anything long-sleeve is a good buy here because of the air-conditioning. Judy Hunt agrees. Thumbing through slides of Christian Lacroix's autumn/winter designs, the marketing executive says locals Chinese will opt for his more conservative, elegant, body-hugging cocktail suits. Those who will buy his trademark mixing of plaids, prints and patterns are usually expats. ''Western women [because of their body type] can carry the look off.'' Before the shipments of autumn/winter designer clothes arrive here in the middle of this month, we asked some of the designer shops to suggest one look that expresses their designer's spirit for the coming season. And one that will sell. Gemma Kahng: The phrases are long, lean, loose but tailored. ''Rich and muted colours'' is how Judy Hunt describes the autumn-winter look of New York designer Gemma Kahng. ''The silhouette will be long jackets, narrow pants, long, slit skirts. The look is top-heavy in a way. The eye will go upwards.'' This is great news for women with a pear shape. ''The longish jacket and long, loose but tailored pants hides any defects.'' Her best bet is Kahng's red print jacket (or vest) with lace ''reminiscent of 18th century wallpaper'' over solid black pants or skirt and shirt. Accessories will supply additional colour and watch for a minimum of fine detail - lace, ribbon, interesting gold buttons. The basic colour scheme is burgundy, browns, mauve and dark greens. Fabric will be crepe or chiffon for shirts and blouses; wool jersey and wool knits for pants and skirts. Approximate price range: jackets ($5,000 to $7,000); pants and shirts ($2,000-$3,000). Christian Lacroix: Straight, body-revealing and layered, according to Judy Hunt. Wool knits will predominate during daytime. Evening wear will be rich fabric such as silk, crepe, taffeta with lots of lace and embroidery. Her best bet for Chinese women will be the body-hugging suits that flatters their figures and height. ''The way Lacroix cuts fabric allows even a tight dress or suit to hide figure flaws, rather than accentuate them.'' The cocktail suit has see-through pants and frilly lace cuffs, a Lacroix detail. Price range is around $20,000 to $30,000. For expats it is Lacroix's mad marriage of plaids and prints and tartans - an ensemble of separates that includes a wool knit shirt, silk blouse and vest. ''It is a big look. And it is stunning the way he mixes everything.'' Each piece is priced separately. The buyers for Lacroix here skip heavy coats and order lightweight materials and stick to ready-to-wear, including evening. ''There's no place to wear haute couture here.'' Chanel: The black leather dress with gold buttons and gold and spaghetti straps. ''It combines Karl Lagerfeld's love of fine leather, the grunge look and sophistication,'' explains Judy Ip, manager of the Chanel boutiques. ''It says youthful and sexy.'' Price around $30,000.