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SCMP Reporter

Getting there

If you plan to arrive by train from Nice, remember to reserve a seat. We forgot and were left standing and sharing seats for about six hours. From Milan, it's a good idea to get on the Eurostar as the journey will be much quicker.

Accommodation

I travelled to Florence as a backpacker and stayed at Ostello Archi Rossi youth hostel near the Stazione di Santa Maria Novella. It's in an extremely convenient location which allowed me to roam the entire city by foot. It had a fantastic atmosphere - it's definitely a meeting place for the young, and there's also free Internet service and cheap meals on offer (Via Faenza 94, Centro Storico. Tel: [39 55] 290 804).

Near the Santa Maria Novella train station is a building with various hostels and hotels on each floor, and Hotel Azzi near the top is quieter than most. The rooms that sleep up to four are basic but comfortable and bathrooms are shared or ensuite. Breakfast is included - ask for Eleanor (Via Faenza 56, Firenze 50123. Tel: [39 55] 213 806).

Activities

Relive the picnic scenes in A Room With A View and spend a couple of hours in Fiesole, a pretty town in the hills above the city. Panoramic views, cool breezes, a Roman amphitheatre and the inevitable gelateria provide a respite from the crowds and heat of Florence. Treat yourselves to dinner or a room at the stunning Villa San Michele, which used to be a church and convent (Via doccia 4, Fiesole 50014. Tel: [39 55] 5678 200; www.villasanmichele. orient-express.com).

Florence is one of the most romantic places in the world and if you're there with someone special, a walk along the River Arno is a must.

The perfect escape from tourists is to rent a bike, cycle right through the city centre and head for the northern part of the famous Chianti wine region. This can be accomplished in an easy day trip, usually riding about 35km, and although it's a little hilly, you'll be rewarded with unforgettable panoramic views of Florence. Along the way there are beautiful villas, olive groves and vineyards, and you'll feel as though you've been transported back to the Renaissance period. Other routes to enjoy are to Terzano and the convent at Incontro or inside Cascine Park (southern Florence), both offering not-to-be-missed views.

Piazzale Michelangelo offers spectacular views overlooking the city which are particularly beautiful at sunset. Either take a bus or walk up to the square from Porta San Niccolo. Further up the hill, the picturesque church of San Miniato is worth a visit.

Florence is the place for art buffs, with numerous galleries. I most recommend the Uffizi but get there early or you'll be waiting for about two hours in the peak season (Via della Ninna 5, Firenze 50122. Tel: [39 55] 2388 651; www.uffizi.firenze.it).

For a day trip, head to nearby Siena which is just beautiful. It's a gorgeous little terracotta town and you could spend hours wandering the little streets. The train trip takes about an hour and only cost me 11 euros (HK$84), return.

A must-see is Michelangelo's David at the Academia Gallery. It takes a bit of finding but it's worth the effort - just the sheer size of him is extraordinary. The Academia also houses a fair amount of Byzantine art and all-in-all you would spend at least one and a half hours there (Via Ricasoli 58-60. Tel: [39 55] 2388 609).

Shopping

The main shopping area to wander around is between the Piazzale degli Uffizi and Piazza della Signoria. Florence is famed for its paper and leather goods - you'll find some of the softest leather in the world. Also, there is a multitude of markets north of the River Arno and around the Piazza della Repubblica and Piazzale degli Uffizi. Definitely worth a look, although some are blatant tourist traps.

Dining

Vivoli near the Santa Croce church makes the best ice cream in Florence, if not the country (Via Isole delle Stinche 7. Tel: [39 55] 292 334). Then, although expensive (particularly if you sit down at one of the outdoor tables), Cafe Rivoire does the best hot chocolate - so thick you can almost stand a spoon in it - and is a good people-watching spot (Piazza della Signoria 4. Tel: [39 55] 214 412).

My favourite restaurant and a long-standing favourite of Florentines is the Acqua al Due. Particularly popular is the Assaggio di Primi (meaning 'a taste of first courses') which gives you the chance to sample a selection of five types of pasta and five sauces. Reservations essential (Via della Vigna Vecchia 40. Tel: [39 55] 284 170).

At Delfina you can eat on the terrace while enjoying the romantic view and the smells of traditional cooking wafting from the open kitchen. Dishes to try include the zucchini salad with pine nuts, lamb cutlet and kebabs. Well worth the trek (Via della Chiesa 1, Artimino. Tel: [39 55] 8718 074).

Enoteca Pinchiorri is formal and on the expensive side but you can't go wrong with an establishment consistently voted Florence's best restaurant in the guidebooks. The food and service is exquisite and Enoteca Pinchiorri has one of the best- stocked wine cellars in Europe (Via Ghibellina 87, Firenze 50122. Tel: [39 55] 242 777; www.pinchiorri.it). It's better than Ristorante Alle Murate which is also well-known and nearby.

For seafood, go to L'Acquacheta on the old state road that connects Florence and Pontassieve near Vallina. In summer you can sit outside and sip wine as you work through huge portions of grilled jumbo prawns and mussels in pepper sauce. You can really taste the freshness of its fare in the olive oil and parsley (Via di Rosano 59, Vallina-Bagno a Ripoli. Tel: [39 55] 696 054).

Nightlife

Some of the best nightspots are in Oltrarno, south of the river. One night we joined a pub crawl (you can find details in one of Florence's entertainment publications) and were led around at least a dozen bars. We met many language exchange students from various universities and were also given free T-shirts.

I would recommend the piano bar Dolce Zucchero. It's a nice place to hang out and there's also a small disco for the more energetic (Via Pandolfini 36-38. Tel: [39 55] 2477 894).



Florence