The first time I ate polenta was in Berkeley, California. Most people associate Berkeley with its university, but it's also where California cuisine started, specifically at the restaurant Chez Panisse. Because I was a student, I could only afford to eat at the Chez Panisse Cafe. One time, the lamb I ordered was accompanied by small squares of something I couldn't identify. A man at the next table asked, 'How's the polenta? Are you into that?' I asked, 'What's polenta, this stuff?' A woman at the other table was offended by my choice of noun and said derisively, 'Yes, that stuff !'
I now think this story is amusing - these two diners were trying to make out as haute cuisine what was for many years a staple for Italian peasants. It's still an inexpensive grain. Most shops in Hong Kong sell only instant polenta. The traditional polenta needs about 30 minutes of constant stirring but the texture is better - it's sold at Viva Italia stores in Mid-Levels, Ap Lei Chau and the Peak.
The proportions for both kinds of polenta are about one part grain to four parts water. Heat water in a deep, heavy pan and add salt. Pour the grain in a slow, steady stream into the boiling water, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon to prevent lumps. For instant polenta, cook as long as the package directs, for the traditional kind, cook until tender. When it's ready, add a big chunk of butter and some grated parmesan.
Polenta is bland and tastes best with strong, pungent flavours and rich sauces. When freshly made it's soft and creamy, but you rarely find it served this way in restaurants. Usually, they'll pour the polenta into a dish and let it firm up, then cut it in squares to be pan-fried.
For soft polenta, pour it into bowls and add gorgonzola and fresh basil leaves, or top with a spoonful of pesto and fresh, flavourful tomatoes. If you happen to have a white truffle in your fridge, the most luxurious polenta is topped with shavings from this expensive fungus.
For firm polenta, allow it to set and then heat oil in a heavy pan and fry on one side until it develops a crust, then turn over and cook the other side. An easy topping is kale sauteed with lots of garlic and slices of Spanish chorizo or other strongly flavoured sausage. Top with large shavings of parmesan. Or serve the polenta with a variety of mushrooms (including rehydrated dried porcini) sauted in butter with a splash of wine, salt and lots of black pepper.