13/F Times Square 1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay, tel: 2506 0009 Open: noon-3pm, 6pm-midnight One glance is all it takes to realise that WasabiSabi is not a typical Japanese restaurant. There are no demure, kimono-clad waitresses padding around silently, no sense of peace and calm. Instead, there's an underlit catwalk for guests to strut down, coloured lights flashing around the room, a sound system pumping out the tunes and a menu that's long, innovative and slightly difficult to navigate. Our reservation gave us a small table for two by the sushi counter. From the list of sakes (complete with tasting notes and food recommendations), wines and creative cocktails, we ordered delicious lychee saketinis ($70) to help us unwind after a hectic week. The menu is confusing - sushi is listed in five separate sections (one towards the front of the menu and the others at the end) as well as in the recommended dishes. From the contemporary section we ordered goma tofu sushi (sesame tofu with 'our own blended miso' and three types of crab caviar, $30 each), from the special order section we had the anago (sea eel) with smoky tsume sweet sauce on wok-crisped sushi rice ($130), and from hand rolls and maki, the salt-grilled salmon loin ($70) and crispy soft shell crab with shiso leaf ($70). We rounded out our meal with two selections from the recommended dishes, the kani salad harumaki (vertical sheared towers of crispy crab spring roll with freshly grated wasabi, $75) and Hokkaido Taraba crab tempura ($180). Three of the dishes came in quick succession, which was annoying because they all needed to be eaten immediately. What's the point of the sea eel being 'freshly cooked' (as it said on the menu) when we had to wait to eat it because we were in the middle of the crab spring rolls? Especially when the two pieces of eel sushi cost $65 each. By the time we got around to eating it, the eel had gone cold and the 'wok-crisped sushi rice' was soggy. Better was the unusual sesame tofu sushi, which was a lovely contrast in colours and textures. The crunchy black, orange and green caviars sat atop the beige-coloured, silky textured sesame tofu, which was placed on a sheet of chewy seaweed laid across the sushi rice. The sushi rice, which is unusually delicate and fragrant, was also showcased in the hand rolls, whose seaweed was a little soft from sitting around (we had asked that the kitchen slow things down, but our rolls seemed to have been made before this request). The best dish of the evening was the Hokkaido Taraba crab tempura ($180): a seaweed roll packed with juicy crab, then deep-fried in a delicate batter. It came with a dipping sauce made from the pungent crab roe, which I loved but my guest hated. From the dessert list of ice creams and sorbets we ordered a trio ($95): the black sesame ice cream and sorbets of yuzu (Japanese citrus) and the intriguing WasabiSabi and green apple. The sorbets were excellent - as tart and refreshing as they should be. The latter sorbet deserves special note: the wasabi flavour was perfectly muted, giving only a subtle aftertaste to the bright and lively green apple. Dinner for two with three cocktails ($70 each) was $979.