1826B Po Tung Rd, Sai Kung. Tel: 2792 8474.
Open: Sunday brunch 10.30am-3.30pm, Monday-Sunday dinner, 6pm-10pm or later
The sound of popping champagne corks greets you as you step over the threshold of this seafood establishment on a Sunday. Perhaps the theme music from Jaws should be playing as well, for a sweet peril awaits those who enter. If it's not the free-flowing bubbly that gets you, it's the Hollandaise sauce, as any heart specialist will testify.
But it's a risk worth taking, as this champagne brunch represents excellent value for money. For $200, diners receive unlimited bubbles or Buck's Fizz, and a hearty breakfast.
Our meal began with the first of what would become many glasses of sparkling wine: Cribari, an extra-dry Californian sparkler which might not boast a French pedigree but is very drinkable nonetheless. Next up was a generous platter of fresh fruit - watermelon, honeydew, rock melon, strawberries and grapes - placed in the middle of our table of four. This was accompanied by a basket of miniature Danish pastries. These dainty treats had spent a little too long in the oven, but despite the certain explosive quality were still tasty. Never mind, the staff's vigilance in topping up our champagne flutes soon erased any concerns.
We were about to order from the selection of mains when friends phoned to ask if they could join us. Some establishments might frown at such a haphazard arrangement, but the waitress seemed more than happy to shift us to a larger table to accommodate two more.