But it's a risk worth taking, as this champagne brunch represents excellent value for money. For $200, diners receive unlimited bubbles or Buck's Fizz, and a hearty breakfast.

Our meal began with the first of what would become many glasses of sparkling wine: Cribari, an extra-dry Californian sparkler which might not boast a French pedigree but is very drinkable nonetheless. Next up was a generous platter of fresh fruit - watermelon, honeydew, rock melon, strawberries and grapes - placed in the middle of our table of four. This was accompanied by a basket of miniature Danish pastries. These dainty treats had spent a little too long in the oven, but despite the certain explosive quality were still tasty. Never mind, the staff's vigilance in topping up our champagne flutes soon erased any concerns.

We were about to order from the selection of mains when friends phoned to ask if they could join us. Some establishments might frown at such a haphazard arrangement, but the waitress seemed more than happy to shift us to a larger table to accommodate two more.

Brunchers have a choice of four hot dishes: poached eggs and Hollandaise sauce with smoked salmon or Canadian bacon on toasted muffins; waffles with strawberries and banana, maple syrup and whipped cream; orange roughy with Hollandaise sauce; or eggs any style. All four options are served with delicious crispy-fried chunks of herbed potato. Those who aren't a fan of runny eggs, beware. We weren't offered a choice as to how we like our eggs cooked, but fortunately there were no hard-boilers among us. The Hollandaise sauce - and there was lashings of it - was velvety smooth, with just the right tang. The orange roughy, lightly dusted with flour, was moist and had a sea-salt freshness to it. Although there was a generous helping of salmon with my eggs, one companion felt the amount of bacon was a little on the small side.

But quantity was no issue when it came to the drinks. By the time we waddled out the door, about three hours after we'd walked in, our glasses had been refilled more times than we could count. So much so that the talking fish in the men's bathroom had adopted a Pythonesque persona by the time we departed. Just as we prepared to leave, the waitress asked if we'd like another bottle of sparkling opened. One for the road? Fortunately, common sense prevailed.

The cost: Brunch for six, with six desperately needed coffees, came to $1,320.