Sushi Toki G1015 Yiu Shing Mansion Stage 10, Taikoo Shing, Island East Tel: 2186 6969 Open: 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm The name of the restaurant should have tipped us off about what to order. We should also have taken a clue from the long sushi bar displaying a huge array of fresh fish and shellfish. Instead, we were tempted by the rest of the menu at Sushi Toki where, it seems, sushi reigns supreme. But then what's the point of having other items on a menu if they don't live up to the quality of the restaurant's speciality? Our dishes were served in no particular order. The various stations should be better co-ordinated so the sushi and sashimi come first, rather than in the middle of the meal, and it would have been nice if they had timed the arrival of the hot dishes so they could be enjoyed slowly, instead of in a rush to eat them at their optimal temperature. We were so intrigued by the idea of the unusual cheese dumplings ($45) that we had to try them. This was a mistake. The dumpling skins were tough and oily and the filling tasted like tinned orange fake cheese. If they're going to refine the menu, this should be one of the first items to go. In contrast to the dumplings was the dish of cold tofu ($40). The small blocks of bean curd were served with a bowl of dipping sauce and a small plate holding grated fresh ginger, minced spring onion and smoky dried bonito. It was cooling, refreshing and enjoyable. The rest of the meal seemed to come all at once. The tempura combination ($110) was slightly oily and heavy but good value, with three large prawns and a nice assortment of vegetables, including a thick slice of sweet, crunchy lotus root. Much better were the deep-fried shrimps ($45), which were small, delicate and greaseless. Because they were so tiny, the whole, crisp shrimp could be eaten, head, shell and all. The cod in sweet bean sauce ($80) was ordinary. Our best choices were the sushi dishes. The delicate, fragrant rice was highlighted in the toro temaki ($65), with its pristinely fresh tuna belly. The soft-shelled crab roll ($120) was huge and somewhat unwieldy, but it tasted good nevertheless. Whoever designed the restaurant's interior deserves commendation. The lines are clean and spare, contrasting bricks with blond wood and darker-stained accents. The result is unusual and interesting. Dinner for two, with a small beaker of hot sake ($100), was $666.