Cote d'Or, France

4-MIN READ4-MIN

Published: 12:00am, 5 Jan 2003

COTE DE NUITS? Cote de Beaune? Cote d'Or? It all seems rather confusing, unless you either grab the nearest book on Burgundy or make a trip to the region yourself. The latter option certainly is preferable, and is ideally accompanied by the former.

The Cote d'Or, which aptly translates as 'Gold Slope', is the most respected Burgundian wine-producing region. It boasts within its boundaries famous vineyards such as Romanee-Conti, La Tache and Puligny Montrachet. The Cote d'Or is again sub-divided into the Cote de Nuits, lying between the medieval towns of Dijon and Beaune, and the Cote de Beaune, which stretches south-west of Beaune for about 8km.

Beaune, with its many hotels, is the most obvious base for touring. Try the centrally located Le Cep (27 rue Maufoux, tel: [03] 80 22 35 48), which has combined several ancient townhouses into a hotel with a small garden.

From Beaune, speed up the A31 for 20 minutes until you reach the turn-off for Marsannay, the most northerly town of the Cote de Nuits. As you join the D122 (the Route des Grand Crus) and begin winding your way south towards Beaune, your first stop should be at Fixin's Domaine de la Perriere (tel: [03] 80 52 47 85). Phone a couple of hours ahead to make sure that Earl Joliet, the owner and winemaker, is expecting you. Fixin is an appellation whose vineyards produce a range of red and white wines up to premier cru level. Dating back to the Middle Ages, the Clos de la Perriere was built by monks and operated as a monastery and vineyard. Today it is the leading Fixin producer whose tasting room is in the monastic cellars just metres from the fermentation vats.

Progressing further along the Routes des Grand Crus, you will soon venture through the commune of Gevry Chambertin and then on to the Cote d'Or's largest vineyard, the Clos de Vougeot. About 80 growers own this estate, each with their own rows of vines and each making their own wines. The main buildings date back to the times of Cistercian monks and now house a museum and shop selling vinous souvenirs (www.closdevougeot.com). Just a minute or two down the road you will come to the jewel in Burgundy's crown, Vosne Romanee, a charming village dominated by a landmark, spired church. Here, vines belonging to the Domain de la Romanee-Conti produce the finest, rarest and dearest pinot noir wines.

Take the time to visit a number of wine-tasting boutiques in the village. A typical example is Le Salon de la Fontaine (17 Rue de la Fontaine, tel: [03] 80 62 39 34). Members of the Vigot family, who own a few rows of premier cru vines in Vosne Romanee and Nuits Saint Georges, operate this small tasting room. They also own grand cru-designated vines in Echezeaux. Not a large or famous concern, this type of establishment welcomes passing visitors. Irrespective of the producer, the only way to try a grand cru Burgundy is to take a deep breath and hand over the cash. I bought a mouthwateringly, luscious 1997 Domaine Thierry Vigot Echezeaux Grand Cru here for $366. Compare this with buying a similar grand cru for $2,500 in Hong Kong and it almost justifies your airfare.

After the excitement of a day in the Cote de Nuits, it's time to pass through Nuits-Saint-Georges and return to Beaune for some sustenance and sightseeing. Beaune itself is a relatively compact walled town with its Hotel-Dieu being the most visited building. Built in 1443 as a hospital, its colourfully tiled sloping roof and beautiful courtyard are unique (tel: [03] 80 24 45 00).