G/F, 19-21 Tong Chong Street, Quarry Bay Tel: 2805 5293 Open: Monday-Saturday noon-2pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm A French fine-dining restaurant in Quarry Bay? Why, we wondered, when the most popular Western eateries in the area are serving pub grub, sandwiches or Happy Meals? Perhaps the owners thought something along the lines of 'if we build it, they will come'. Perhaps. And let's hope so. Because Le Parisien serves some really wonderful food. The restaurant was almost half full on a weekend night. We sat as far away as possible from a group of cigar smokers who puffed throughout their meal. Le Parisien replaces another French restaurant, Le Pousse Cafe. The interior has become more formal and showcases a high, colourful, curved glass ceiling. The ceiling is backlit with lights that change periodically, sometimes giving your companion (and presumably yourself) the same greenish skin tone as a cadaver. Not attractive. The menu changes seasonally, with just six choices each for appetisers and main courses. My guest and I decided to share and ordered the wild mushroom and butternut squash ravioli ($72) and the galette of pig trotter and ham hock ($82). The one, huge ravioli sat in the centre of the plate surrounded by a pale green sauce of asparagus and basil. We cut through the tender skin and a delicious mix of mushrooms and tender squash came spilling out. It was lovely - light but flavourful, with a beautiful mix of colours. The galette was a much heavier dish but equally delicious. It had been coated in fine bread crumbs and fried so it was crunchy outside. This contrasted with the savoury interior which was a mix of textures from the pig trotter - tender shreds of meat, small bits of tendon and skin. It was served on a beautifully clear and intense sauce. For her main course, my guest chose John Dory fillet with smoked winter vegetable blanquette ($190), which was stunning. The vegetables - carrots, potatoes, baby onions and peas - imparted a subtle smoky scent and flavour to the fish and the white sauce was surprisingly light and delicate. My leg of lamb had been cooked for seven hours in cabernet sauvignon ($168) so obviously I couldn't order it at my preferred medium-rare. It was a little disappointing because the meat didn't have the expected melting texture from being cooked for so long; instead it was slightly stringy. But the sauces served with the lamb and other dishes made clear the chef is an expert saucier; this red wine reduction was absolutely lovely. For dessert, we chose the hot souffle nougatine with apricot coulis and warm chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream ($55 each). The souffle was light and delicate but we couldn't quite appreciate the richness of the chocolate fondant after all we had eaten. Although it's probably too much to expect Central denizens to make the trek to Quarry Bay, it's their loss. At least those of us who work in Quarry Bay won't have to wait for a table. Dinner for two, with one glass of French merlot ($55), was $745.