With so many developments in the pipeline vying to create new Lan Kwai Fongs in Tsim Sha Tsui, it seems a shame that Knutsford Terrace is not lifting its game.

While LKF and SoHo offer all-day dining at many outlets, the terrace is still on a traditional split-shift system and was completely dead on a recent Saturday afternoon, while around it the streets of TST were jammed with shoppers.

Opening their kitchens for something more substantial than coffee and cake, and a little creative marketing, could see all that change.

We were fortunate then to have chosen Papa Razzi for our long, lazy lunch. The staff offered superb service and kept the kitchen open, welcoming us in what can only be described as true Italian style. They did likewise for a number of other groups, leaving it the only restaurant in the dining enclave with customers well into the afternoon.

Choosing from the enticing menu of homemade pastas, pizza and authentic-sounding mains wasn't easy. Having already devoured a complimentary portion of warm olive bread with fresh tomato salsa, we wisely decided to share an appetiser of melanzane al forno - tomatoes, mushrooms and mozzarella wrapped in eggplant ($72). Straight out of the oven and dripping with melted cheese, it was just what the doctor ordered as the chill set in.

We followed this with two excellent pasta dishes. The perfectly cooked spaghetti con gamberetti all'arrabiatta consisting of sauted spaghetti with dry and fresh shrimp and sun-dried chilli ($98). And the homemade ravioli con proscuitto e salsa di pomodoro secco ($108), which was four huge cheese, mushroom and proscuitto-filled ravioli coated in a piquant tomato sauce with sun-dried tomatoes and topped with a handful of rocket. Filling without being heavy, the dish was lifted by the zesty sauce but some of the ravioli was a little tough around the edges.

The cost: lunch for two with two double espressos ($45 each) and two lime sodas ($32) cost $475. A bottle of beer costs from $38, a glass of house wine is $48 and there is an extensive wine list.