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Wildfire

13 Bonham Road, Mid-Levels

Tel: 2540 6669

Open: Sunday-Thursday, noon-10.30pm, Friday and Saturday, noon-2am

Residents of the Bonham Road area rejoice - there is finally a mid-range dining option in your neighbourhood and it doesn't disappoint. Owned by the Igor's Group - which also runs Stormy Weather in Lan Kwai Fong and Singapore, the Boathouse in Stanley and Wildfire branches in Stanley and Singapore and one on the way in Elgin Street this month - this new restaurant is a breath of fresh air.

Although the Mini Kitchen dai pai dong just down the road is a good place for a cheap bite, Wildfire has found a niche in the area with its modern decor and contemporary pizza- and pasta-based menu. It also offers several outdoor tables for smokers and currently does not have a liquor licence, which means you can bring your own wine.

We started with what was touted as fried prawns with lime and rosemary dip ($68), but turned out to be deep-fried battered prawns. Not that we minded; the batter was light and crispy, the prawns fresh and firm and the dip subtly herbaceous.

My partner and I shared a pesto pizza with chicken and goat cheese ($105) and a spinach salad ($65) for main, which was more than enough for two. The salad was an excellent combination of fresh spinach leaves, pine nuts, apple, croutons and vinaigrette.

Unfortunately, the pizza was a little oily (which is difficult to avoid when using pesto) and also on the bland side - we couldn't detect the flavour of the goat cheese. The attentive service and friendly welcome, however, had us forgiving that hiccup quickly enough.

A meal for two with a bottle of mineral water ($48) came to $315.

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