bodyType

customContents

entityId

entityUuid

articlePageQuery

filter

article

articleBaseAdvertisingInfoArticle

articleListArticle

articleSeoArticle

helpersCheckIsPostiesArticle

hooksArticleAcknowledgementGateOverlayArticle

hooksTrackPageViewArticle

hooksContentInterestArticle

articleLinkingDataContent

articleSchemaContent

liveArticle

advertZone

sentiment

contentLock

topics

types

sections

moreOnThisArticles

urlAlias

commentCount

sponsorType

authorLocations

authors

paywallTypes

corrections

displaySlideShow

multimediaEmbed

printHeadline

seriesContainer

socialHeadline

headline

flag

firstTopic

glossary

flattenTypeIds

publishedDate

additionalInfoBoxes

images

image

relatedLinks

relatedNewsletters

__typename

createdDate

sponsor

factSheets

series

disableOffPlatformContent

published

updatedDate

summary

subHeadline

body

keywords

copyrighted

customTimezone

liveContents

SCMP Reporter

Emporio Armani Caffe

2/F, 204-5 Chater House, Central

Tel: 2532 7722

Open: Monday to Sunday, noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm (10.30pm last order)

'It looks like a Maxim's!' complained a friend when she visited the Emporio Armani Caffe a couple of months ago. It is, I informed her - it's part of the Maxim's empire of fashionable restaurants. Unfortunately, my friend wasn't comparing the 'caffe' to hot spots such as Mezz and Thai Basil, but to the group's fast food places.

In retrospect, it wasn't the wisest decision to visit at night - this is definitely a place for lunch, when the Central crowds can add a lively buzz. My guest and I walked through the long, dramatic entrance to find only one table of early diners who left soon after we sat down.

The dishes sounded tempting, although there wasn't much my vegetarian guest could eat. To start, she chose the parmesan tartlet stuffed with roasted seasonal vegetables ($98). The array of vegetables was impressive but the dish was bland and oily, with all the flavour concentrated in the far too-salty tart dough.

My starter of Norwegian salmon with sea salt, tomato compote quenelle and aromatic herb sauce ($98) also suffered from blandness, despite all the components. The tomato compote was intensely flavoured, but it tasted better on its own (it would also be excellent as a spread for bread) rather than with the rich salmon.

My guest's main course of Carnaroli rice and barley risotto ($128) was an interesting take on the more usual pure rice risotto. The barley served to considerably lighten the dish and add a smooth textural contrast.

As soon as I saw the menu, I knew what I would have for my main course: the French quail on golden crust filled with goose liver, black truffles and Savoy cabbage, which had some of my favourite ingredients in one dish. But as with so many other things you really look forward to, it disappointed. It was overcooked and dry, and as with the dishes that preceded it, it lacked flavour. But the accompanying glazed pearl onions - cooked slowly with pancetta and mushrooms until tender - were absolutely wonderful.

The meal ended well, with a lovely dessert of bananas baked in parchment paper ($58). The parchment parcel was slit open and gave off a mouth-watering aroma as the waiter placed it on our table. The bananas had been baked with strawberries and blueberries and the intensely concentrated fruit aromas and flavours were delicious.

Service was attentive, although that's to be expected since we were the only customers for most of the evening. Dinner for two, with one glass of Valpolicella ($58) and a soft drink ($35), was $737.



thefussyeater