LEMON GRASS ISN'T the prettiest of herbs. When it's sold in stores it looks dry, bruised and old. Only when you see the stalks growing with their long, green blades intact do you recognise its resemblance to grass. Cut the stalk open and the juicy interior will release a deliciously fresh, lemon fragrance, although the flavour is much more subtle than the citrus fruit.
Lemon grass isn't used widely in Western cuisines except when chefs are trying to incorporate 'exotic' flavours in their dishes. It's used most often in Southeast Asian cuisines, including those of Vietnam, Thailand, Cambodia and Malaysia.
Although the flavour of lemon grass is easy to recognise, you can't always spot it in dishes. Because the texture is quite tough, the herb is frequently pounded into a paste (almost always with other ingredients), which tenderises it and releases more of its flavour and fragrance. When the thick, outer fibres are removed, the slightly more tender interior can be finely chopped for use in marinades, soups, stews and stir-fries, although it is still quite chewy. The herb's light, refreshing flavour gives a lift to rich, coconut milk-based dishes and it helps balance the strong tastes of chillies, garlic and fish sauce. It's delicious with delicate poultry and seafood, but has sufficient flavour to stand up to stronger-tasting meats. It's also good in desserts.
Lemon grass - also known as citronella - can be used medicinally and as a tea, insect repellent, perfume and aromatherapy oil. The herb is sometimes sold chopped and dried, but the fragrance and flavour give only a hint of the fresh variety. In Asia, where stalks of fresh lemon grass are easy to find, it's not necessary to buy it dried, even if you're using it for tea. If you want to ensure you always have some on hand, encase the stalks in plastic wrap and store them in the freezer. When buying the fresh herb, feel the base - it should be moist and plump.