RHONE WINES Nobles Rives marsanne 2001, $70 Think Rhone, think red. Usually, that's true. Here's an exception. The marsanne grape is relatively unknown outside the northern Rhone valley (there's a little in Australia) and it's a regional delight. The small, white berries are used to make heavy whites that are invariably rich in flavour. This is 100 per cent marsanne, cold fermented in stainless steel. That style preserves the natural flavours, an invigorating bouquet of pears and peaches. Don't let this hang around. It doesn't keep for more than a couple of years. Serve it chilled with grilled fish or chicken. At this price, it's ideal for a day out on a boat. Available from Wine 'n' Things (tel: 2873 5733) Pere Anselme grenache blend, no vintage, $328 Reading Rhone labels can be tricky. This delicate wine, for instance, contains grenache, shiraz, mourvedre and cinsault, each variety used specifically to enhance smoothness, colour, finesse, aroma or fruity taste. Using the same grapes but with different percentages can produce startlingly different results. These grapes were fermented separately in stainless steel before being carefully blended and then aged in oak. There is no vintage on the bottle because one component, the cinsault, for instance, may have spent five years in the barrel and the grenache only 12 months. If you think this is all too complicated, you're right; just whip out the cork and enjoy this with any pork or chicken dish. Available from Ponti Trading (tel: 2810 1682) Le Clos du Caillou 1998 blend, $123 The gastronomic capital of France, Lyons, is positioned on a stretch of river where the most famous vineyards begin. This is typical of food-friendly regional wines. There is a whole bunch of grape varieties in this mixture - about a third is the late-ripening mourvedre, common along the Mediterranean coast of France and Spain. In the Rhone it's usually found in Cotes du Rhone and Chateauneuf du Pape products. Typically, this is medium bodied with lovely ruby hues. This grape goes perfectly with duck; there's a smoky scent and an aroma of olives and herbs along with mouth-filling berries and cherries. Mourvedre is becoming fashionable. Taste this to find out why. Great value. Available from Berry Bros & Rudd (tel: 2110 1680)