Nothing beats a good steak. Unfortunately, shops in Hong Kong don't sell dry aged beef, which has a stronger than normal flavour, and they carry a limited choice of cuts - usually only filet mignon, sirloin, flank steak and rib-eye. Of these, I like rib-eye for individual, grilled or pan-fried steaks, while the cheaper flank is good for cooking rare, then slice thinly on the diagonal and use in salads or pile high onto toasted bread for a steak sandwich. Filet mignon is tender but dry and flavourless because it doesn't have a lot of fat. Most of meat's flavour is in the fat, which is the reason the expensive Kobe and Wagyu beef is so delicious. My favourite skillet for cooking steaks is heavy, un-enamelled cast iron. Panhandler in the Prince's Building, Central (tel: 2523 1672), sells cast-iron skillets and ridged grill pans. Steak au poivre This is a classic dish. It's delicious with potatoes (baked, roasted or pommes frites) and sauted mushrooms. 2 rib-eye or sirloin steaks, about 250 grams each and at least 2.5cm thick 1 heaped tbsp whole black peppercorns 1 heaped tbsp whole white peppercorns Fine sea salt Olive oil, for brushing the steaks Oil, for the pan 1/3 cup cognac or brandy 1/2 cup heavy cream Crush the peppercorns roughly in a mortar and pestle (or put them in a plastic bag and crush with a rolling pin). Brush both sides of the steaks lightly with olive oil, sprinkle with fine sea salt and press the peppercorns onto both sides. Press firmly with your fingers so the peppercorns stick to the meat. Heat a heavy skillet then rub lightly with cooking oil. When the pan is hot, add the steaks and sear for 3-4 minutes on each side for rare, or until cooked to desired level. Remove the meat from the pan, pour off excess fat and add the cognac and cream. Simmer, using a wooden spoon or wire whisk to scrape the burned bits from the pan. Reduce until it's a light sauce consistency, taste for seasoning and pour over the steaks. Serves two. Recommended wine: Terrazas Reserva Malbec 2000 from Mendoza, Argentina ($169). 'Mouthwatering, spicy vanilla aromas and raisin-blackberry flavours, it would complement the peppercorns and cream without overwhelming.' Pan-fried steak with tarragon butter This is easy. Just pan-fry the steak and top with a cold slice of herb butter. The butter melts onto the hot meat and adds a lot of flavour. If you like, make a larger quantity of the herb butter, wrap it well then store in the freezer for the next time you want a steak. Don't be surprised by the use of granulated sugar. If it's cooked correctly, it doesn't make the steak taste sweet; instead, it caramelises into a wonderful, crunchy crust with a lovely, glossy sheen. But it's essential the pan is hot before adding the meat, or else the sugar will melt into the meat instead of caramelising. 2 rib-eye or sirloin steaks, about 250 grams each and at least 2.5cm thick Salt and freshly ground black pepper Granulated sugar Cooking oil for the pan For the tarragon butter: 40 grams unsalted butter 1 small shallot, finely minced 2 heaped tbsp chopped fresh tarragon A scant tsp of freshly squeezed lemon juice A pinch of salt Make the tarragon butter and let it come to room temperature, then thoroughly blend in the shallot, tarragon, lemon juice and salt. Roll into a cylinder, wrap in clingfilm and chill until firm. Sprinkle both sides of the steaks lightly but evenly with sugar then season with salt and pepper. Heat a heavy pan and when it's hot, brush lightly with cooking oil. When the pan is very hot, add the steaks and cook on medium-high for 3-4 minutes on each side (for rare) or until cooked to your taste (the meat will smoke a lot because of the sugar). Top each steak with half the tarragon butter. Serves two. Recommended wine: Les Tours de Laroque 1997 from St Emilion ($188). 'This is the second wine from the grand cru Chateau Laroque, made by the same winemaker with grapes from younger vines. Aromas of ripe blackcurrant, with whiffs of a well-aged cigar in a cedar-lined box.' Marinated flank steak Flank steak is juicy and full of flavour but it can be tough. Don't overcook (it should be medium-rare at most) and slice it thinly against the grain. This is my mother's marinade recipe - it works for all kinds of steaks and is especially delicious when you grill the meat over coals. 1/2 cup soy sauce 1/2 cup rice wine 2 heaped tbsp finely minced or grated fresh ginger 5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 flank steak Cooking oil for the pan Freshly ground black pepper Chopped fresh coriander 1 tbsp pure sesame oil Toasted sesame seeds Minced spring onions Mix the soy sauce, rice wine, ginger and garlic. Massage this mixture into the meat and marinate in the fridge for several hours (up to overnight), turning frequently. Remove the steak from the fridge 30 minutes before it's time to cook. Heat a grill or large, heavy pan and when hot, brush lightly with cooking oil. Remove flank steak from the marinade (reserve the marinade) and pat dry, making sure no minced ginger or garlic remains on the meat (it will burn when cooked). Cook the flank steak on the hot grill (or in the pan) for about four minutes on each side then remove to a cutting board, cover loosely with aluminium foil and let it rest for 10 minutes. While the meat is resting, make the sauce: pour the marinade into a small saucepan, bring to the boil and simmer for two minutes. Remove from the heat and add black pepper, coriander and sesame oil. Slice the meat thinly against the grain, drizzle lightly with the sauce and sprinkle with sesame seeds and spring onions. Serve with white rice. Recommended wine: Wirra Wirra Vineyards 'Scrubby Rise' 2001 from McLaren Vale in South Australia ($148). 'It's sometimes tricky to match an Asian-style dish with wine because of the different flavours and textures, but New World wines work well because of their emphasis on fruit. Scrubby Rise is a blend of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot. The shiraz gives it a bit of pepper and spice, the cabernet is the 'heart' of the wine, and the petit verdot adds an interesting floral note to the bouquet.' Wines recommended by Nellie Ming Lee, food and wine consultant at Oliver's, Prince's Building, Central (tel: 2869 5119). Food styling Leonie van Hasselt
