RICK OWENS
Who is he? The San Francisco-based designer, known for his distressed finishes and androgynous tailoring, has garnered a cult following since his label appeared in 1996. Owens' signature leather draping and frayed-edge crepe layers exude a strong gothic air, and have created a stylistic niche for the likes of Madonna and Courtney Love.
How did it happen? Owens moved from Porterville to Los Angeles in 1979. He studied design and spent five years creating knock-offs before becoming inspired to start his own label after meeting girlfriend-to-be, designer Michele Lamy.
What are his clothes like? It's hard to imagine a designer from the sun-drenched American west coast coming up with clothes that share the dark aesthetics of the Belgian School. But form-fitted crumpled leather jackets are staples in the Owens closet, along with distressed-finished asymmetric crepe layers and twisted jersey tops. Silhouettes are kept languid with complex layering, while shades remain predominantly black with occasional splashes of muted neutrals and creamy whites.
What does he have to say? 'My designs definitely have a dark side, but not an aggressive one. It's just an alternative to everything else out there. It's sombre and discreet as opposed to depressing and brooding. I like the old-fashioned, sireny silhouette. I'll do a T-shirt in jersey and make it look like your oldest thing, the one you love wearing most. I want the clothes to be luxurious but to have that ease and comfort.'
Where can you find them? Rick Owens is available in boutiques including Joyce in Hong Kong and Maria Luisa in Paris.
