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Perfect 10

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1 Gateway of India Colonial India's answer to the Arc de Triomphe, the Gateway of India is Mumbai's most prominent landmark. Built to commemorate the visit of King George V and Queen Mary in the early 1900s, the Gateway of India is memorable as much for its imposing position on the harbour as for the mass of humanity gathered at its base, selling everything from food to giant balloons. Words and phrases most often used to describe the monument include 'setting sun', 'bathed in light' and 'hues of russet, gold and pink'. But whatever the description, the irony of the majestic landmark, which was built to symbolise the enduring nature of British rule, is glaring. Perhaps the best place from which to appreciate the scene is Souk, the revamped version of the old and stodgy Apollo Bar atop the Taj Mahal Hotel across the road. The only restaurant of its kind in Mumbai, Souk offers the cuisines of Greece, Turkey, Lebanon, Egypt and Morocco, as well as stunning harbour views. The orange and gold decor is reminiscent of London, along with the atmosphere and, of course, the clientele (Apollo Bunder, 400 001. Tel: 91 22 5665 3366; www.tajhotels.com).

2 Intercontinental Marine Drive The most fashionable place to be right now is the Intercontinental Marine Drive Mumbai, a new boutique hotel overlooking the bay. The Intercontinental forms part of what locals proudly term the Queen's Necklace - a string of waterfront lights that ring the bay at night. The venue to head for is the rooftop Dome, which is being billed as the pendant on the Queen's Necklace, as much for its location as for the glitterati flocking there (so far it has only played host to private parties, but the doors open for walk-in business at the end of May). The glass-encased bar and cigar room combine with sofas on the terrace and open skies to showcase Mumbai at its best, particularly at sunset. This can all be enjoyed high above the noise and clutter of the streets of the world's second biggest city. Right across the bay is Malabar Hill, where some of Mumbai's wealthiest have their homes. On the ground floor, Czar is the bar to drink at. Unfortunately, it's billed as the classic men's bar, which is annoying for women who might appreciate the wide selection of malt whiskey. The restaurant of the moment is RGs Kitchen, which offers a catch-all concept that can put Western, Oriental and Indian cuisines on the same table from the restaurant's three glass-fronted kitchens. (135 Marine Drive Mumbai, 400 020. Tel: 91 22 5639 9999; mumbai.india.intercontinental.com).

3 Victoria Terminus This is a must-visit as much for its Gothic architecture as the spectacle of millions of commuters rushing about their business. Tour guides like to call it the city's most exuberant Gothic building, an unlikely description for a transport terminus. Housing about 14 platforms and said to be one of the city's largest buildings, the terminus is still commonly called VT, despite official attempts to change its name to Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus. The first train left the then Bori Bunder station, which wasn't anything as grand, in 1853. Legend has it that the Portuguese hung criminals in the area during the 17th century. The station is, however, always too crowded to feel haunted.

4 The Bombay Store This is the closest thing to an upmarket department store in Mumbai, with clearly marked sections for everything from candles, jewellery, hand-made paper and hair oil to silk bedcovers, tablecloths, carpets, lamps and clothing. It's also easier to pay and leave than at many other stores. Here, there is none of the usual cumbersome and confusing routine of collecting sales slips in one place, paying in another and fetching parcels at a third. If the prices are higher than most other places in the city, they are nevertheless still astonishingly inexpensive. Think tablecloths for less than US$10 (HK$78) and silk bedcovers for less than US$100 (Sir P M Road, Fort. Tel: 91 22 288 5048/49; www.thebombaystore.com). On the high-fashion end of the spectrum, all roads lead to Tarun Tahilianis Ensemble, a wall-to-wall designer shop dealing in cottons, linens, silks and beyond (130/132 Great Western Building, Shahid Bhagat Singh Marg, Fort. Tel: 99 22 287 2883). On the other end of the comfort scale (seeing how the other half lives is one of India's must-do experiences) is the Kalbadevi bazaar area, which gives the word 'crowded' new meaning, and just beyond that the Chor Bazaar, or Thieves' Market. Located near Crawford Market (named after a British municipal commissioner in the 1860s), the area is said by locals to be the heart of ethnic Mumbai. A quick wander through the Gothic portals of Crawford Market, complete with William Morris-inspired bas reliefs, offers yet another of Mumbai's marvels - a massive fresh produce market selling everything from dogs and cats to tropical fish.

5 Red Light A new bar/nightclub that characterises Mumbai's high-living, after-dark attitude. Located atop the Kyber Indian Restaurant, Red Light opened earlier this year with a mixture of music ranging from house to garage and trance. The young and the young-at-heart who gather here mostly wear black, and as little as possible, in keeping with the style that originally gave this place its name. The ceiling is covered with red lights and the walls are dark with plate glass and water features. The bartenders reminded me of Tom Cruise in his Cocktail days. Located on Kalaghoda, opposite the Jehangir Art Gallery, Red Light is the night-time part of the area's restoration project. This renovation includes the Elphinstone College and the Army Navy Building, which has been taken over by the Westside retail store (145 M G Road, Fort, 400 023. Tel: 91 22 5634 6246/7).

6 Red-light district Light years away from the club of the same name is Mumbai's red-light district in the Falklands Road area. These dismal few streets are depressing, but as much a part of today's Mumbai as the many Mercedes lining up outside the Taj Hotel. Here, women ply their trade in little hovels called 'cages'. The best time to see the area in full swing is around midnight and the best way to go is by car - with the windows firmly shut.

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