New Zealand pinot noirs
Felton Road Pinot Noir 2001, $399
It began about a decade ago. Out from the cold, tussocky wastes of New Zealand's Central Otago began to seep a trickle of light reds. 'Madness,' I proclaimed. 'It's freezing down there. It's desert. You can't grow vines.' Wrong again. This region now produces pinot noirs that wine experts rave about. The arid summer days of 15-hour sunshine gently urge the delicate pinot fruit to perfection and this example is no exception. There is a glorious elegance of quality fruit from one of the world's most southerly vineyards. Watson's: 2147 3641
Seresin Pinot Noir 2001, $245
These grapes are grown about 500 kilometres further north in Marlborough, a region famed for sauvignon blanc. It took time to make this wine and it was time well spent. First, the berries were hand-sorted and placed in cooling tanks so gentle skin contact would boost colour. The juice was warmed for fermentation, then matured for 15 months in small oak barrels. This allows the natural delicacy of the grape to shine. Like all good pinots this goes extremely well with roast duck. If you don't want to cook a big bird at home, buy some duck or goose from a Cantonese restaurant. Kedington: 2898 9323
Highfield Pinot Noir 2000, $220
