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Where to ... sample regional Chinese cuisine

Jenny Lee Jai-xing is president of the International Association of Chinese Traders, vice-president of Hong Kong Women's Foundation and honorary president of the Taiwan Business Association. Although she was born in Shanghai and is proud of her native cuisine, she says she loves all regional Chinese cuisines. She introduces us to five of her favourite Chinese restaurants.

Kiangsu and Chekiang Residents Association Restaurant, Manning House, 38-48 Queen's Road Central, tel: 2526 3251. 'This restaurant mainly offers Shanghainese cuisine. I like the whole ham and chicken stewed with shark's fin; it's so sweet and succulent. Don't miss a cold dish called smoked egg. The egg yolk is so soft, yet not soft enough to fall apart.'

Cheung Sang Kee Restaurant, Paliburg Plaza, 68 Yee Wo Street, Causeway Bay, tel: 2577 7886. 'Hangzhou cuisine is great. Whenever I come here with a group of people I order the beggar's chicken. The cavity of the chicken is stuffed with dried shrimps, bamboo shoots and glutinous rice. It is wrapped in a big lotus leaf, which adds fragrance, and the whole thing is coated in mud and baked so the flavours and aromas can't evaporate. I can't tell you how exquisite this dish is. Remember to order it in advance because it takes hours to make.'

Farm House Restaurant, AIA Plaza, 18 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, tel: 2881 1331 (above). 'Despite serving mostly Guangdong cuisine, this restaurant also adapts some dishes from other parts of China. All the food is MSG-free. The fresh fish mixed with mixian (rice noodles) is delicious, with a naturally sweet flavour. I order it every time I go there.'

Lao Ching Hing, Novotel Century Hong Kong, 238 Jaffe Road, Wan Chai, tel: 2598 6080. 'This Shanghainese restaurant serves an excellent dish of fried fresh hairy crab meat mixed with noodles. Freshwater hairy crabs are available year-round but are tastiest and cheapest in winter when supplies abound. You can also have this dish with rice. Another speciality is an appetiser of carrots preserved in soy sauce and sugar, which keeps them crispy. This dish is unavailable in other Shanghainese restaurants.'

The Chariot Club, Sin Hua Bank Building, 2-8 Wellington Street, Central, tel: 2521 6271. 'This Guangdong restaurant has lots of individual rooms so it is a quiet place to bring guests. The sea coconut soup with almonds is really good for your health. Don't forget the fried beancurd skin with vegetables. Even non-vegetarians love the mild flavour.'

Ricky Chung

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