KNOWN as bo lei in Cantonese and sold under the Mandarin spelling puer, this is arguably the most commonly served tea in Hong Kong.
It is a black tea, which means the leaves have undergone an oxidation process, and is widely respected for its abilities to improve digestion, particularly that of fatty foods. Although widely consumed, the tea is seldom made well. Vesper Chan offers hisadvice for enjoying the best puer has to offer.
The tea. The best puer tea leaves are naturally aged and at least eight years old. Cheap puer tea is aged more quickly, artificially moistened, in closed containers. ''Without fresh air, the tea gives an ugly feeling [when you drink it],'' he warns.
The teapot. Puer should be made in a porcelain container not clay. As it oxidises, the tea produces distasteful by-products and attracts dust. When the tea is prepared in clay, these compounds will cling to the pot and flavour the tea rather than being washed away in the first rinse.
The water and kettle. Water should be just at boiling point when the tea is made. The kettle's spout should deliver a small, forceful stream of water to cleanse the leaves in the first rinse.
Method. First, rinse the teapot and cups with hot water to warm them.