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Coffee

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Coffee is not just a drink that provides a kick-start to your day - it is also a popular flavouring in desserts, confections and even savoury dishes. On menus, it is often listed under exotic-sounding names such as 'cappuccino creme brulee', 'espresso sorbet' or 'mocha mousse cake'. In the southern United States, a traditional dish is ham with red-eye gravy, in which the pan used to fry the ham is deglazed with black coffee.

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Coffee is grown throughout the world, in Africa, South and Central America and Asia (Indonesia and Vietnam). Recent news stories have told of a coffee glut, with growers attempting to cut back on production to increase prices. For those who love exotic coffees, production of these expensive varieties is still limited, so don't expect bargain prices for Kona (from Hawaii), Blue Mountain (from Jamaica) or Kopi Luwak (from Sumatra, and made from beans that have passed through the digestive tract of a civet cat - not a palatable option given the animal's current bad press).

Like many (still illegal) stimulants, coffee was once condemned as an evil substance. It was believed the stimulant effect of caffeine had more sinister implications than keeping people awake, and religious leaders claimed coffee kept people from important activities such as prayer. In countries where the pace is slower than in Hong Kong, coffee is credited with creating a laid-back lifestyle in which people spend an inordinate amount of time over steaming espressos and fresh pastries.

The production of coffee is labour intensive. After the 'berries' are grown, hand-picked, cleaned and dried, they must be sorted by quality, roasted (which brings out the aroma and flavour) and packaged. The generic, cheaper beans are blended to make a consistent 'house style' of each brand, and the more expensive beans are often sold as single varietals. It takes a lot of skill to roast the beans: too little time over the heat and the flavour and aroma are anaemic; too much and they are burned.

No matter what kind of coffee you buy, fresh is best. Buy it in small, vacuum-sealed packets, store it in an airtight container so the aroma cannot escape, and use it as quickly as possible. Because most of the volatile oils (containing aroma and flavour) are released when the beans are ground, there will be more taste if you grind the beans just before use. If that is not possible, buy ground coffee, wrap it tightly and store it in the freezer.

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Those of us who love coffee also take joy in the coffee 'accoutrements' - tiny espresso cups and demitasse spoons, stylish espresso makers or French presses, and cream and sugar sets. However you make your coffee, don't make the mistake of brewing it in the morning and re-heating it throughout the day. You might as well make instant.

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