When it comes to seafood, the outlying islands have an abundance of restaurants dishing up good, inexpensive food. Choose your location with care, and a great view can be admired too. Lantau Island Tai O This southern tip of Lantau has one of the last-remaining original fishing villages in Hong Kong. Locals still live in stilt houses built on the water, and fishing (and now tourism) remains its main trade. The pungent smell of fish paste permeates the air. Despite its name, Vene Tian Seafood Restaurant (16-18 Wing On Street, 2985 4108) has only standard garoupa, shrimp and scallops on its menu. You can, however, buy seafood from one of the fish stalls, and the restaurant will cook it at a charge of about $35 for steamed fish, $45 for crab with fried onion and ginger. Across the bridge at 29 Market Street, Fook Moon Lam restaurant (2985 7071) serves very good food and the portions are generous. If appearances are to be believed, it is a popular spot for lunching ladies. Seafood depends on catches, but expect live shrimp, prawns and similar fare found in other restaurants, all at market price. Regular dishes include garoupa with sweet-and-sour sauce ($55) and prawns cooked in a number of ways (average price $75) - pan-fried with spicy salt, deep fried with sweet-and-sour sauce and sauteed Sichuan style. Fook Moon Lam has a sister restaurant at 15 Wing On Street called Good View Seafood Restaurant (2985 5115). Do not be fooled by its name - the only view is of the path outside crowded with day-trippers. Ferries leave from Central and Tuen Mun (call First Ferry Company on 2131 8181 for a timetable), or from the Tung Chung MTR station (take the No 11 bus to Tai O). Mui Wo From the ferry pier, walk towards the bay and within a few minutes on the left-hand side you will come across a small hilltop, which on a clear day commands beautiful views over Silvermine Bay. Fuk Chui Loi (1 Chung Hau Road, 2984 8227) and neighbouring restaurant Tak Juk Kee (3 Chung Hau Road, 2984 1265) serve similar dishes at similar prices. Seafood can be a little pricey, and regular dishes such as squid start at about $50. Cheung Chau The island has a lively seaside feel on a busy weekend and there are more dining options here than nearby island Peng Chau. East Lake (85 Tung Wan Road, 2981 3869) sits close to the beach and though it does not sell seafood, you can buy it from the seafront fish market and they will cook it. Sea Dragon King (corner of Praya Street and Tai Hing Tai Road, 2981 1699) displays its catches in tanks. Prices fluctuate. On the menu, fried shrimp with cashew nuts costs $60, fried squid with broccoli $47. New Baccarat (9A Pak She Praya Road, 2981 0606) sits at the far end of seafront restaurants from the pier. Less traffic makes this a more relaxed dining option. Fried shrimps with vegetables ($55), baked garoupa with cheese and butter ($55) and sweet-and-sour prawns ($58) are some of the dishes available. Ferries leave from Central (call First Ferry Company on 2131 8181 for the timetable). Peng Chau Do not plan a trip to Peng Chau specifically for its seafood restaurants, they are almost non-existent. Hoi King Seafood restaurant (13-15 Wing On Side Street, 2983 9588) is the only one, but the seafood was glaringly absent except standard fare such as squid, shrimp and garoupa. Ferries leave from Central (call First Ferry Company on 2131 8181 for the timetable). There are also inter-connecting ferries between this island, Lantau and Cheung Chau. Lamma Island Yung Shu Wan Head towards Main Street and you will stumble across Yung Shu Wan's many seafood restaurants. First stop is Man Fung Seafood restaurant, which sits right on the seafront with a large outdoor dining area. It is covered, so even during the rainy season alfresco dining can be enjoyed. The restaurant also has an indoor seating area - although why anyone would choose to sit inside when there are great views to be admired is anyone's guess. Dinner sits in water tanks, and catches include clams, prawns and lobster. Prices for fried chili clams and black bean sauce are from HK$48, chili prawns $120. Lobster prices vary according to weight, but start at $100. Sampan Seafood is a few doors up at No 16. Like Man Fung, it has a large outdoor dining area. The restaurant serves Cantonese seafood such as fried squid ($58), sauteed scallops ($95) and deep-fried snapper with sweet-and-sour sauce ($120). Not strictly a seafood restaurant but nevertheless worth a mention, Japanese restaurant Bluebird serves fresh fish and seafood dishes at very reasonable prices. The teppanyaki seafood set ($130) includes assorted sashimi, grilled seafood, as well as vegetables, salad and soup. Further down the main street, across from Diesel's pub, is the Lamcombe Seafood Restaurant. The venue is a local favourite because of its alfresco dining area, located out back, providing wonderful harbour views and a refuge from the weekend traffic. The ubiquitous water tanks in front contain a good selection of shellfish and crab. House specialities are the spicy-salty squid (deep-fried in a light batter), grilled prawns with garlic, and eggplant and minced pork hotpot. Adventurous diners should sample the minced quail, served on a bed of lettuce with a special bean sauce (2982 1043). Ferries leave from Central, or from Aberdeen via Pak Kok Tsuen. Call Hong Kong and Kowloon Ferry on 2815 6063 for the timetables. Sok Kwu Wan Several seafood restaurants line the waterfront of this laid back village. Between them the restaurants can cater for hungry diners in the hundreds, and it can get busy at weekends with day-trippers seeking a taste of rustic life. Wan Kee (28 First Street) serves individual dishes such as pepper prawns and squid, as well as five-set courses good for two or three people, for $230. Dishes include fried prawns and clams. Steamed garoupa ($160 up) and crab with black pepper and honey ($100 up) are on the menu at Rainbow (16-20 First Street), along with standard fare such as boiled shrimps. At No 15, Tai Yuen specials include 10-course menus for 12, at HK$100 per person. Dishes include prawns, clams, calamari and steamed fish. Ferries leave from Central (call Hong Kong and Kowloon Ferry on 2815 6063 for the schedule); and from Aberdeen (call Chuen Kee Ferry on 2375 7883 or 2982 8225). Po Toi Island It takes effort and planning to get to this destination south of Hong Kong island, but catch it on a dry day and the unspoilt beauty that meets you is worth it. Only a few families inhabit Po Toi and ferry sailings from St Stephen's Beach in Stanley are few (call 2554 4059 for confirmation of times and sailings). From the pier, a short stroll takes you to Tai Wan village, home to a few restaurants serving standard seafood fare. Grass (Tap Mun) Island Another island where efforts to get there are rewarded with stunning beauty. Escape the city and admire Sai Kung from a different angle. In addition to a few shops stocking fluids and snacks, there are a couple of seafood restaurants. Hon Kee serves regular dishes such as steamed prawns and deep-fried squid. Ferries leave from Wong Shek pier in Sai Kung. From Diamond Hill MTR take bus 96R, which goes direct to Wong Shek Pier where you can catch the Tsui Wah Ferry service (call 2527 2513 for details). Sampans can also be taken from the pier.
