Stitch in time

The cheongsam has come to represent two sides of Chinese women - subservient and traditional on one hand, and exotic and sexually empowered on the other. It is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful dresses a woman can wear. Although fundamentally Chinese, it is a cross between Qing-dynasty unisex wear and 1930s European womenswear.

In its early form, the outfit was known as a qipao. This name referred to the loosely fitted Manchurian banner gown that evolved, under the influence of Europe's bias-cut tailoring, into the snugly fitted dress made famous by screen star Anna May Wong in the 1920s. Seasonal variations were introduced to the length of the side slits and the height of the collar, adding fashion interest in the process. After a decade of shorter hemlines in the 20s, a longer length was adopted in the 30s with thigh-high side slits revealing imported silk stockings and high-heels. Long sleeves eventually gave way to small cap sleeves and sleeveless styles, but the dress preserved the distinctive high collar and huaniu knotted buttons of the qipao.

As fashion continues to blur cultural boundaries, the cheongsam remains visible on the overseas runways of Roberto Cavalli, Christian Dior and Jean Paul Gaultier. A symbol of nostalgic glamour and elegance, it has become a universal fashion statement.

This page: dress ($19,600) by Leonard, The Lee Gardens, Causeway Bay. Earrings ($1,150) from Shanghai Tang, Pedder Street, Central.

Opposite: vintage collarless cheongsam (for other designs visit China Arts and Crafts, Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, where tailor Pin Kee-fong takes orders of $1,000 or more). Necklace ($11,300) from Chanel, Prince's Building, Central. Earrings, stylist's own. Hairpins ($35), from stalls in Li Yuen Street East, Central. Silk Jacquard shawl ($980)

from Shanghai Tang.

Left: custom-made, stretch-lace cheongsam ($12,000) and oval-bead necklace ($3,600) from Shanghai Tang. Rosebud earrings ($1,600) from Anteprima, Lee Gardens.