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Knutsford Terrace, Kimberly Plaza

Tsim Sha Tsui

Tel: 2316 2381

There are times when the appetite demands the sort of wild culinary adventure that only five-star chefs can create and other occasions that call for straight-up classics with no frills.

With a name like Knutsford Steak Chop & Oyster Bar, you are under no illusions about what to expect, but what the unimaginative moniker does not suggest is the high level at which it is executed.

Tagged a 'Bourbon Street open balcony', the American theme restaurant does several things very well. It does not go overboard on its theme. Whether this is due to its ample square footage, which minimises the impact of the US paraphernalia, or a decorator with more sense than dollars, is unclear. The end result is a casual and warm atmosphere with the focus on the restaurant's huge, well-stocked bar. Sports fans can congregate at one end of the wood-lined restaurant to watch the big screen while those not so enamoured with things athletic can enjoy a meal without feeling shouted down.

Most importantly, the restaurant does not try to be all things to all people. Its short menu concentrates on its specialities and the kitchen serves them up to a superior standard.

It spares the diner the ridiculous, spartan salad 'buffet' and red velvet booths so popular in lesser steakhouses and the outrageous prices, pomp and ceremony of the more upmarket establishments.

On a reasonably busy recent weeknight, there were four types of fresh oysters available and sold by the half dozen ($98): US Blue Points, Australian Smokey Bays, Tasmanian and Irish Rock. The waiting staff could do with improving their oyster knowledge. They introduced the Blue Point oysters as being Australian, when it is the name often used to describe many varieties of Atlantic bi-valves. The waitress could not identify which were which but made a good show of guessing, although a nice try, a little disappointing for an oyster bar. But the kitchen crew shucked the dozen ordered just before serving so they were supremely fresh, and once down the  hatch, their names seemed to matter less.

This was followed by a New York 10-ounce steak ($178) and a whole rack of New Zealand lamb ($168), both served with crisp broccoli and chunky chips.

Served on huge plates, it was not the more-than-adequate presentation that caught the attention but the quality of the meat. Both dishes were as they should be: cooked as requested, tender and full of flavour; requiring no extra embellishment with decent gravy supplied.

The mains were washed down with a bottle of Langi shiraz from the Australian Grampians region ($490), but did not quite hasten digestion enough to allow for desserts.

Dinner for two with two coffees ($38 each), a glass of house white ($44) and two Victoria Bitters ($24) came to $1,320.



The Knutsford Steak Chop & Oyster Bar