Six of the best ...mountain hikes in Taiwan
Hohuanshan (moderate, long) With its sapphire skies, snow-tipped peak (from November to March) and wooded valley shrouded in mist, Taiwan's hill country has few parallels in East Asia. Take a train or plane from Taipei to Hualien City on the island's east coast in time for the 9.30am bus to Tayuling. Hohuanshan (3,416 metres) is an easily accessible peak a short stroll from the island's highest highway. Check in at Tayuling's Lo-In Hotel (tel: 886 4 2599 1005), then set out early next day for the 26-kilometre road hike from hotel to summit and back. On fine winter mornings you'll be woken by the sound of water dripping from icicles hanging from the roof, melting as the sun rises over stupendous Chilai Shan (3,605 metres) opposite.
Alishan (easy) This central mountain's main drawcard is the opportunity to watch the sun rise from an altitude of 2,000 metres. Arrange the trip at short notice when the weather forecast is good. Stay at the Alishan House Hotel (tel: 886 5 267 9811), which is picturesque rather than luxurious, and staff will wake you early. A hotel car takes you to a train to the viewing platform, where you are greeted by a rose and apricot display, then a shining sword of light strikes the bank of cloud far below you. The two- to four-hour, five-kilometre forest walk back to the hotel through dappled sunlight is a vision of paradise: flowers at your feet; birds calling among the giant trees.
Tung Pu (moderate) This is an awe-inspiring, vertiginous yet popular trek from the town of Tung Pu along part of the high-level Batungguan Trail, a route constructed by aborigines to link the island's east and west coasts. Starting at more than 2,000 metres, it travels up an enormous valley, the roiling river below, towards Yu Shan, Taiwan's highest peak (3,952 metres), two days' climb away. Early on you cross the face of a precipice, the Father and Son Cliff, but the metre-wide path is well-fenced. You can choose how far to walk along the trail, but make sure you turn back no later than 2.30pm (when an eerie mist usually falls) to ensure reaching Tung Pu again before dark. Most hikers are so exhausted they stay a second night. Recommended: Tung Pu's Li Tun Hotel (tel: 886 491 2702 2789).
Yangmingshan (easy to moderate) Yangmingshan National Park is Taipei's most astonishing natural asset, with volcanic hills steaming clouds of sulphur and hawks circling in the sky. Avoid weekends and you'll find silence, grazing water buffalo and well-marked but thinly populated trails. Take the number 260 bus from the north side of Taipei Station to the terminus, then head up the paved route to Chisingshan (1,120 metres), the park's highest peak, which offers views back over the river and city.
Tatun Shan (moderate) Wooded slopes dotted with flowering cherry trees in spring give this 12km trek a Japanese ambience. Tatun Shan is Yangming-shan's most unspoiled mountain, despite having a weather station on top. Views of the coast and graceful Kuanyin Shan on the far side of the Tanshui River shift in colour as the day advances and the weather changes. This hike takes you along paved trails, then a slippery path (with ropes to hold). A farmer offered me an armful of oranges straight off the tree on my last visit. Take Taipei Metro to Peitou, then minibus S7, asking the driver for the start of the Tatun Shan trail.
Huang Ti Dien (moderate) This is an extraordinary experience a short trip from Taipei. It is a high but narrow two-kilometre-long rock ridge that is challenging but still walked by grannies, toddlers and teenagers in pink flip-flops. You feel as if you're on a tightrope, but the extensive views of wooded ridges show what wild terrain most of Taiwan has. Take the Taipei Metro to Mucha, then bus number 666 to Shihting. Attempt this hike in dry weather only.