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New Zealand cabernet sauvignons

Mills Reef Elspeth cabernet sauvignon 1999, $216

It was once an article of faith that New Zealand could produce superb whites but that the climate was too cool and humid for quality reds. In the South Island pinot noir did exceptionally well, but the common wisdom was that for a huge, gutsy red, you had to go over the Tasman

Sea to Australia. There used to be a kernel of truth in this folk wisdom. Twenty years ago, one used to taste thin, acidic reds. No more. By planting Bordeaux clones of the best cabernet sauvignon grapes, wine-makers in areas such as the dry Hawkes Bay are getting wonderful results. The Elspeth range of labels from the noted Mills Reef estate comes from grapes grown on their Mere Road vineyard. As with virtually all New Zealand quality reds, the wine is matured in French oak barrels. Easy-drinking, it has intense taste and colour, with blackberry overtones. It slips down particularly well with a sharp cheddar cheese.

Wine 'n' Things (tel: 2873 5733)

Coopers Creek Hawkes Bay cabernet sauvignon/cabernet franc 2000, $145

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