Shanghai is rapidly becoming one of the most eclectic shopping destinations in Asia. Mainstream shoppers still mass along Nanjing Road, where competition is fierce and, if you watch for the sales and bargains, you can pick up top international brands for a steal. The Westgate Mall (1038 Nanjing Road) is a classic destination for international brands - with constant offers and end-of-season deals. One of the latest is 50 per cent off Cristina Gavioli and Bernini products until the end of the month. But malls are not the only places for shopping. Cool and trendy boutiques are popping up everywhere in Shanghai, offering the latest Chinese fashions and some unusual concepts from Europe and the United States. One such place is Velvet+ (7 Lane, 210 Tai Kang Lu, 138 1680 2437). The store is offering laidback, Californian-style casual wear - in an interior that looks more like a man's bathroom than anything else, complete with a urinal and a big bathtub. Cotton skirts and shirts are priced at 200 yuan to 300 yuan (about HK$190 to $280)and low-waisted trousers and skirt pants for 450 yuan. For a furnishings in a European flavour made with eastern fabrics, visit Anthony Chao (4/F Tianshan Building, 30 Tianshan Lu, 6259 3060). Pricey but high-quality textiles such as silk taffeta (200 yuan to 300 yuan a metre) and silk velvet (600 yuan to 1,200 yuan a metre) are on offer here. New stores are opening all the time and a browse through the magazines That's Shanghai or Shanghai Talk can often point you in the right direction. Shanghai is a great place for finding unexpected items - if you scratch below the surface. Even shops in hotel lobbies, which are usually horrendously overpriced, can spring a few surprises, especially when it comes to items that are considered of low value to locals such as pop-culture paraphernalia like cake tins with Mao Zedong on the lid. One place that displays the change in the political and social climate and bargain original posters at the same time is the Propaganda Poster Art Centre (Room BOC, 868 Hua Shan Road, 6211 1845), run by collector and owner Yang Pei-ming. Tucked in a basement room in an apartment complex, the place is a treasure trove of information, insight and art. The period of the Cultural Revolution, from 1966 to 1976, when Mao forced all artistic expression to be channelled into serving the revolution, offers some of the most stunning work. No individual creativity was allowed as the greatest artistic talent of a generation was spent painting posters to educate people about Mao's ideas and to attack his enemies. The result was not only a period of intense activity and persecution that today provides unique social and political insight into the era, but art work that is both moving and highly skilled. Posters cost from 800 yuan upwards. It is best to call before visiting the shop. For a complete contrast, visit the friendly, if slightly touristy, lanes of Yu Yuan Gardens, where you can pick up hand-embroidered slippers for 40 yuan a pair and various carts sell traditional ornamental boxes and displays. Although stained to give them an older look and feel, these are definitely not antiques. But they offer reasonable value. Bargaining is essential. The better the deal, the longer and more arduous the ritual - which will often mean a few raised voices, looks of disgust and walking away. However, bargaining is the name of the game, and no one respects someone driving a hard bargain as much as a Shanghainese shopkeeper - even if they don't exactly show it. Then there are the cuddly toys - of which there is shortage, from panda bears dressed in Ming dynasty clothing and battery-powered teddies to pretty much anything you want. If you're in the market for a few cutesy gifts, leave that spree for the airport - you will not believe the choice. SHANGHAI Flights: From HK Dragonair: Nine flights a day China Eastern: 11 flights a day Transportation from airport: The Maglev System - a magnetic overhead rail - is due to open at Pudong International in the first quarter of 2004, cutting the 30km journey to the city to 7.5 minutes (430km/hour) Attractions: Nanjing Road, The Bund, French Quarter Transport: Taxis: 10 yuan flagfall (addresses in Chinese are useful if you do not speak Mandarin); Subway: five yuan Hotels: Five-star rooms: 5,300 Rates: US$120 to US$190
