THE Thais are always on about Ayutthaya. Its sacking in 1767 was the end of an epoch of glitter, and a terrible catharsis for the Siamese, involving the abandonment of their ancient capital and a fresh start. This could prove a precedent worth noting for Bangkok, currently being sacked, not by the Burmese, but by the tribes of Nissan and Daihatsu.
A journey up the Chao Praya river to the ruined capital has always been a favourite tourist break from Bangkok, and a novelty ride on the city's still fastest artery. The Oriental Hotel has long run air-conditioned day cruises. Another outfit, Asia Voyages, is now offering the round trip in a more lolling and languorous fashion.
They have converted three teak rice barges into upmarket passenger transports. The flagship, the Mekhala, gives its name to the experience. The barges will take you up or down river overnight. The organisers provide meals, a romantic night-time mooring and an arranged brush with organised Buddhism.
The vessels, which would once have been down to their gunnels under the weight of their staple cargo, now sit high in the water, great hippo tubs with portholes and a deck awning perched over the stern like a parasol on a fat fruit cocktail.
The holds have been converted into six cabins, each with a bathroom. On deck is a bar, upholstered bench seating and a dispersion of casual furniture right through to the sun deck on the bow.
A group of us chose to sail down river, from Ayutthaya to Bangkok. A 10-seater van gets you up to Ayutthaya.
