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SCMP Reporter

Naked skin has never looked so natural - thanks to smart cover-up work. And really hip hair is well on the way up

Nude skin

Calvin Klein, Emanuel Ungaro and Alessandro Dell'Acqua all sent models down catwalks in flesh tones, and it is the favoured look of international makeup artist Bobbi Brown.

'Nudes are universally flattering and incredibly sexy because they enhance a woman's true beauty and really lets it show through,' says Brown.

Going nude does not mean, however, that you can get away with a naked face. According to the beauty expert, it is a matter of finding shades that are right for your complexion. They should blend seamlessly with skin to create a polished look that is warm, creamy and totally nude.

Dust eyelids with a skin-toned shade, lightly dot apples of cheeks with a rosy-hued blush stick. To lips, add a pinkish-beige gloss or creamy-matte lipstick. The look  modulates easily from day to evening with a sweep of brown liner around the eyes.

Bobbi Brown cream blush ($200, Joyce Beauty) in pale pink, desert rose, coral, clay or red berry.

Bobbi Brown Nude on Nude Eye Palette ($400, Joyce Beauty) includes four shades of eye-shadow and a liner that will take you from day to evening.

Chanel Blues

Blue is the new black at Chanel, and  inspiration for its latest shades came from  denim. According to the label's international make-up artist Susan Sterling, blue is as classic as black, creates a subtle contrast and brightens the eyes. The look is flexible and colours are toned  for subtlety (using lighter shades on the eyelid) or for a smoky,  dramatic effect (using a darker shade to outline eyes). The two can be combined  for an intense look. Enhance the eyes with a liner containing silver glitter (such as Le Crayon Yeux de Chanel, $345) for extra power. Cheeks should be a natural colour, and lips finished with a transparent azure. How does blue transfer to Asian skins? Beautifully,  says the makeup artist. 'They add contrast and enhance the deep shades of Asian brown eyes'.

Rock 'n' roll

Nars is going for a Raw Glamour look that shies away from nothing. 'The sultry garnet and violet hues juxtaposed with gunmetal greys heighten the opportunity for every woman to be as glamorous as she chooses,' says the brand's international makeup artist Mathew Nigara. 'This season's retro-inspired fashion trend allows women to explore the return of colour with a mod inspiration, providing a backdrop for experimentation in her makeup wardrobe'.

Apply a sheer foundation for translucent skin. Eyes are important. Bring them out by lightly sweeping a violet shadow (such as Nars Babylon) onto the lid and 'blend, blend, blend', says Nigara. Accentuate cheeks with a rosy hue. The look can be paired with a metallic nude lip (such as Nouba in the Nars collection), or a rich berry (try Nars Spanish Red) 'for a modern yet polished look'.

Rosy cheeks

Flushed cheeks that suggest they have been exposed to wintry winds is this season's take on the rosy theme. Shades swing from pale pink to bold berries. The key for a natural look is to apply sparingly. Smile and blend colour from cheeks to ear and jawbone. Layer on more colour when necessary.

Crimson lips

From warm brick-red to daring fuchsia, red lips are in. Rich creams or mattes are good for red veterans; novices should begin with a gloss, which is lighter on application. Experts suggest applying colour without lining the lips, which can give the mouth a 'hard' edge. A 'kissed-off' or 'stained' look makes it easy to wear bold colours. Paint the lower  lip and press lips together, fill in the lip line and blot lips. If you are going for bold, keep the rest of the face nude.

Hair

The biggest hair news this season is the 'updo' and the fringe. Models at shows for Donna  Karan, Chanel and Alexander McQueen all sported hair swept up off the face. Some were sleek twists, some were bouffant, and others ruffled. The message is 'up is hip'.

Fringes take on different shapes. Asian hair has a head start on  trends seen in Yves Saint Laurent and Marc Jacobs, where hair is long and straight, with a blunt-cut fringe. Locally, The Hairdressers (tel 2973 0512) director Darrin Usher  says trends are  softer than in previous seasons, but texture and movement are still in use.

'We are finally moving away from the punk, glam rock looks that have been strong in previous seasons'.

Fringes are having a  strong influence on  styles the salon is creating.  Darrin says these 'are more on the longer side than short, so they may not be practical for everyone but are very sexy'.

A softer effect is created by combining short hair with length through the fringe.

At Toni&Guy, fringes are heavy with subtle asymmetry  so the trend can be easily adapted to suit individuals.

Strong, solid colours are used to accentuate styles. At Toni&Guy, the funkiest are sunset pink and red and orange mixes. These  are used underneath the hair shape and, says director Susan Roberts, work great on Asians and blondes.

If age or office restrictions give the thumbs-down to bold colour, then use softer colours, which work just as well. Complementary colours that follow the contours of hair give a healthy, full look to styles, Darrin says. He used violet brown as a base, and a medium gold brown at the front for this style.



Going nude