Where? Set within seven hectares of verdant parkland, near Huka Falls in the heart of New Zealand's North Island. A river retreat, then? Nestled on the banks of the Waikato, Huka is a remote idyll, where the water is so pure you can drink it from your cupped hands. Tell us more. The original antipodean uber-lodge, it was founded in the late 1920s by an Irishman who spotted its fabulous fly-fishing potential. Early guests included American anglers who camped on the lawn. Hmm, not sure about nights under canvas. Relax! The lodge is super-salubrious, thanks to a lavish conversion in 1984; even better it has just received a re-sprucing. Who goes there? Fanatical fishermen are hooked on Huka; it's also a haven for honeymooners and royalty: Britain's Queen Elizabeth II has been twice, and refuses to hang her crown anywhere but in a cabin beneath the willow trees. The accommodation is detached, then? There are 20 cottages tucked along the riverbank, with private terraces, bedrooms overlooking a glass-walled tropical garden, and bathrooms with underfloor heating. What's the main house like? From the outside, Huka resembles a Swiss chalet with overhanging eaves and a wraparound wooden balcony. Inside, it's kitted out like a formal Scottish fishing lodge with tartan carpets, deep sofas, huntin', fishin' and shootin' snaps, blazing log fires, and stags' heads staring glassily from the wood-panelled walls. Sounds very hale and hearty. New Zealand is an outdoorsy place. If you're not into blood sports (guests can also go deer-stalking and duck-flighting), there's jet-boating, sky-diving, bungee-jumping and white- and black-water rafting. Tamer pursuits include sailing, riding, skiing and golf. Presumably, the tucker is top-notch? Fresh food is the order of the day, particularly just-caught rainbow trout washed down with New Zealand wine. Anything else we should know? If you want to escape the clubby atmosphere of the dining room, opt for a table in the orchard where outdoor fireplaces allow guests to eat - and star-gaze - in cosy comfort.