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One Bar + Grill

Level four, One Exchange Square

Tel: 2522 2246

Opening hours: Mon-Fri, noon-9.30pm

The One Bar + Grill has  so much to offer - a stunning interior of warm wood and cleverly partitioned seating, friendly staff and a  decent menu - yet it puts all its eggs in the Exchange Square suit brigade's basket. The result of its focus on the lunchtime and quick after-work drinks crowd  is a place that's only open on weekdays and that was virtually dead when we visited one evening.

Its one-page menu is  business-like,  with a choice of 10 mains from the grill (from beef burger, $110;  to super-expensive Wagyu beef striploin, $355) with  five side dishes at $35 each.  There is also a good selection of snacks and small plates for drinkers, who get a reasonable deal (a glass of Canyon Road sauvignon blanc at $32 or a pint of Carlsberg, $36) during the daily 5.30pm-8.30pm happy hour.

We decided to try a variety of small dishes, all of which did the job efficiently.  The fresh oysters were  served with excellent homemade tomato and vinegar sauces. The crispy-fried chicken wings ($45) offered good value and the charcuterie  plate ($65) was perfect drinking fodder along with  the cheese plate ($105).

Servicing the lunchtime crowd may well be enough for One Bar + Grill, but it could be so much more with  expanded opening hours and the right marketing.

Dinner for two with a bottle of Oyster Bay sauvignon blanc ($320), one pint of beer ($36) and a litre of San Pellegrino mineral water ($48) came to $892.



One Bar + Grill