Spoon
Intercontinental Hotel 18 Salisbury Road, Kowloon Tel: 2313 2256 Open: kitchen 6pm-11.30pm, bar closes at 1.30am
Dear Alain Ducasse,
Forgive me, for I am about to commit gastronomic sacrilege. Having read about your culinary marvels, your trophy case stacked with Michelin stars and awe- inspiring innovation, I was one of your foodie fans from afar. Yet, dare I say it, I found my recent, much-anticipated visit to your new Hong Kong restaurant on the whole underwhelming.
Yes, the spectacular setting on the Tsim Sha Tsui harbourfront is breathtaking. And the funky decor, despite my uncomfortable table, is a suitably upmarket match for the location, and it is a superb showcase of your superb wine list. The concept of your menu, too, which lets diners match any main ingredient with any sauce and side dish, is inspired.
But, Mr Ducasse, I went for the food and, if truth be told, it turned out to be a letdown. A very expensive anti-climax.