expertadvice

Q My father is very interested in military history. A friend suggested I buy him a mandarin square. Can you explain their background? And how do I know if they're authentic?

WHAT THE EXPERT SAYS:

Oriental textiles dealer Teresa Coleman says that insignia badges denoting the wearer's rank and office have existed since 1391, when clothing regulations were issued.

However, it was not until Emperor Qian-long (1736-1795) promulgated an edict in 1766 that the use of rank badges became widely enforced. 'He decided that his mandarins were becoming too vain, and were more interested in the pomp and glory of their dragon robes, or chi-fu, rather than the spiritual meanings,' she says.

'So he decreed that the mandarins should wear a plain dark blue surcoat, or pu-fu, that covered the entire robe except for the li-shui wave band border at the bottom and the horseshoe- shaped cuffs. On the front and back of that robe was a rank badge. The mandarins were not a hereditary class. They were a meritocracy. They became mandarins through a series of examinations, and were entitled to wear a dragon robe on passing the final examination.'

BADGES OF HONOUR:

Coleman says symbols were used to indicate rank. 'Nine birds represented the civil ranks, and nine animals represented the military ranks. There were very strict regulations. Later badges have many more auspicious emblems, probably because times weren't so good and the court was more corrupt.' Most badges were about 30cm square, Coleman says. '[But] the earlier badges, like those from the Ming, are usually larger, and are sometimes trapezoid. Other shapes are mostly fragments: a cuff, or a piece from an imperial robe.'