Perfect 10
1 Sunset at Angkor Wat
You've arrived mid-afternoon (on the Hong Kong flight), checked out the hotel and changed into your Lara Croft/Indiana Jones explorer gear. It is time to get your bearings. If you turn up at the temple toll booth after 4.30pm you can buy a US$50 'access all areas' pass valid for the next three days and the guards will let you in to watch the sunset free. Head to Angkor Wat - the largest and most famous of the Khmer temple complexes of Angkor - grab a drink from the vendors outside and scramble up the steep steps of the centre tower to join the mellow crowd as the light turns violet and magical. It's the perfect start to your trip, not just because Angkor's 105 temples were designed around the movements of the sun and stars. From here, most of the temples are spread out before you, poking out of the rich jungle. It also gives you a chance to appreciate the biggest and best sight of all: Angkor's natural jungle.
2 Chez Sop'hea Restaurant
3 Working Khmer temples
If you ever wondered what happened to the religion that built Angkor and the superstitions that shaped Khmer culture, the answer is nearby. The tourist board doesn't advertise the working, modern temples of Angkor but they are worth an hour or so - not least because they function as social centres as much as places of worship. My favourite modern temple is next to Angkor Wat (first right off Airport Road after Angkor Wat). After the refinements of the ancient temples, it's refreshingly kitsch. Its 1990s breezeblock walls are frescoed with crude cartoon visions of heaven and hell. For a dollar or two the abbot will treat you for any number of malaises. Couples who have argued and want to make up have to kneel down, hand in hand, as water is poured over them. Those who want to be sure of each other's love can buy silver waist chains filled with tailor-made prayers. A potion for 'good sex' is also available for US$5, although it comes in an old Dettol bottle and smells a lot like rose water.
4 Waterways
Engineers will tell you that the real genius of ancient Khmer architects was not their temple complexes but their waterways. Today, they are the home of Vietnamese fishing families who live, work, and even marry without stepping on dry land. If you're pushed for time, head to Phnom Krom (where the boats from Phnom Penh dock) for a sunset cruise on Tonle Sap lake. Hire a boat from one of the many boatmen for about US$20 and let him take you around the floating village's schools, pubs, cafes, assembly halls and even past rusting floating machine-gun nests. Buy beers from old ladies in boats. Bring your swimsuit in case you fancy a dip. If you have more time - and many rolls of film - take an open boat to Cambodia's second city, Battambang. The four-hour journey across the lake and up the winding Sangker River smuggles you through a network of floating villages largely untouched by tourism or electricity. It feels like travelling back about 1,000 years. Surprises, photo-ops and smiles arrive with every bend of the river.
5 Foreign Correspondents' Club
6 Ta Prohm
If you're pushed for time or belong to the Angkor Wat-ever school of archaeology, then at least visit Ta Prohm. This temple has been left more or less as Henri Mahout discovered it in 1860. Its sculptures are wrapped in moss, its crumbling towers entwined in tree roots and gripped by vines. The area's other 105 temples might demand some historical study, but to appreciate the slow-motion wrestle between nature and nurture all you need is to find a pile of rocks, sit down and relax.
7 Lunch at Amansara
8 Spas
Cambodia has a long tradition of restorative massage which, considering the state of some of the roads around Angkor, is no bad thing. The best place for a bit of first-world pampering is the Sofitel Royal Angkor Spa. Recently opened and purpose-built, it is a rarified temple of pampering. Treatments using traditional Khmer techniques and preparations range from US$45 for a one-hour basic massage to US$135 for a two-and-a-half-hour mud and milk extravaganza called Naga's Pleasure. It certainly worked for actress Angelina Jolie. During the making of Lara Croft Tomb Raider she visited seven nights in a row. Cheaper, equally relaxing and even better for your soul is Angkor Massage on Airport Road, off the Siem Reap National Highway. Despite costing just US$3 an hour, the massages given here are regarded as among the best in Asia, not least because all the masseurs are blind and undergo 12 months of training before they start.
9 Kbal Spean
This almost 1,000-year-old collection of river sculptures and lingams (stone phalluses), hidden in jungle-covered mountains 11km from Angkor, was discovered only 30 years ago. It may not be there much longer because looters have begun hacking the sculptures out of their natural settings. It's not easy to get to, but it's worth the effort. The journey takes you on a 40-minute trek through dense jungle, past a beautiful limestone waterfall (ideal for a picnic) and finally to a river whose bed has been carved into hundreds of lingams which purify the water as it flows down to Angkor. Carvings of animals and spirits have also been hewn out of the rock banks. It is serene and relaxed and, thanks to the distance from Siem Reap, it's possible to visit without seeing any other tourists.
10 Landmine Museum and Information Centre
This scruffy collection of more than 4,000 defused mines is both an anti-war statement and a labour of love. For its director, Aki Ra, whose parents were killed by Pol Pot's Khmer Rouge in 1976 and who was himself forced to lay mines around Siem Reap by Vietnamese invaders, the museum is a heartbreaking reminder of Cambodia's recent suffering. Garden displays show how mines were made and hidden to cause maximum injury. For information about the damage mines do, you can talk with victims who work at the museum. For the local tourist authority, which has tried several times to close the museum, it is an unwelcome reminder of the area's strong Khmer Rouge ties. Located past the children's hospital on Angkor Wat Road, opposite Wat Tmei Pagoda. For details call Aki Ra: [855] 012 630 446. Entrance is free, but most people make a donation.