Lardos Steak House
4B G/F Area 31, Hang Hau Village, Tseung Kwan O, tel: 2719 8168
Open: Monday to Friday noon-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm; Saturday and Sunday noon-11pm
Nestled among the flats below Clear Water Bay Film Studio in Hang Hau is a small restaurant with an outsize reputation. Despite its unlikely location and unprepossessing decor, hungry hordes flock to Lardos (and its nearby delicatessen TC's). And they don't come for the salads: Lardos is a carnivore's paradise. Expect a menu based around steaks, ribs and burgers, with unsophisticated accompaniments (chunky fries, baked potatoes, wedges or mash) and sizeable portions.
On a recent Saturday night, the restaurant quickly filled with a mixed crowd. We were surprised to see Tasmanian oysters on the list of starters, so we ordered half a dozen ($89) and a salad of poached salmon with mustard dressing ($89). The oysters were flavoursome but the flesh was soft and watery, which made us wonder about their freshness. The salmon was moist and tasty. Although it appeared to have been grilled rather than poached, it was a pleasant, light start to the meal.
For mains, we ordered a well-done T-bone ($219) and a medium eight-ounce tenderloin ($189) - always a test because of the thickness of the cut - with blue-cheese butter ($20) and a side of garlic and parsley mushrooms. The hefty T-bone was cooked to perfection, but the fillet was more rare than medium, so we sent it back for another spell.