I heard several of my colleagues talking about the invitations they had received to a Dom Perignon gala dinner at the Grand Hyatt, and thought - sadly - that I had been left out. Before I had the time to shed any tears, I found a nice, thick, expensive- looking envelope buried under the stack of mail on my desk, and inside was my invitation to the evening of classical music, fine champagnes and good food. The highlight of last year's Dom Perignon dinner (also at the Grand Hyatt) was the Eroica Trio; this year's dinner featured Chinese soprano, Ying Huang. After she performed a selection of French melodies, Chinese folk songs and classical opera, the dinner started with great fanfare: the curtains on the stage of the Grand Ballroom parted to show a long line-up of waiters bearing magnums of Dom Perignon Vintage 1993. The waiters paraded down the stage and around the room before each took his place in front of one of the tables of guests; at the sharp toot of a whistle, the waiters started pouring. This champagne is lovely - well-balanced, rich yet delicate - and it went beautifully with the varying flavours and textures of the first course of steamed turbot with marinated beetroot and warm foie gras. The Dom Perignon Oenotheque Vintage 1988 was surprisingly young and fresh tasting, despite its 15 years. We had it with the sevruga caviar on cold angel-hair pasta with lobster and lemon vinaigrette. I'm a bit wary of drinking champagne with caviar because the two flavours sometimes combine to taste metallic, but fortunately it wasn't the case here. I thought the main course of braised veal cheeks with potato leek tartlet and black truffles was a bit too salty, but was more than happy with the Dom Perignon Rose Vintage 1993, which is completely different from the frilly, over-sweet 'pink' champagnes. It was so delicious, in fact, that when the waiter came around asking if I wanted coffee or tea with dessert, I decided to have another glass of rose instead.