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La Bodega

G/F, 42 D'Aguilar Street

Lan Kwai Fong

Tel: 2524 7790

Open: noon-2.30pm; 5pm-1am Mon-Thurs; 5pm-2am Fri, Sat

Once upon a time, Spain's King Alfonso X became very, very  sick, and during his recovery took small bites of food washed down with some wine to boost his strength.

Thus tapas, or small portions of savoury hot and cold dishes served to drinkers, were born - or so the story goes.

Alfonso was not known as 'The Wise' for nothing. He quickly realised that the food helped subdue - or at least delay - the effects of the wine, and deemed it be served free in all watering holes throughout the land.

It was a popular decision that put some sustenance into the bellies of less wealthy patrons -  a tradition that continues to  this day in Spain, as many a backpacker can attest, and it soon helped temper bad bar-room behaviour. It would no doubt have the same effect if it were to be adopted in Hong Kong - particularly in our most  famous mayhem magnet, Lan Kwai Fong.

La Bodega is doing its best to uphold the word of the old king, even though - with tapas a  popular dining option across the world these days - it's unfortunately obliged to charge for the pleasure.

Brought to us by the Igor's group that also operates The Boathouse in Stanley and the tapas bar's LKF neighbour Stormy Weather, La Bodega (now six months old) is a reasonable replacement for  the much-loved and recently departed El Pomposo - but  not its equal.

Its attempt to bring a touch of Spain to the Fong could have been tacky, but has been pulled off in a comfortable renovation of the former Moody Blues bar. But it's a shame that the staff seemed distracted.

The food is more than acceptable though. The artichokes with garlic sauce ($59) and bacalao balls ($62) were both a little salty - all the better for enjoying the very drinkable house red Coronas tempranillo ($210).

The fried cheese with blueberry sauce ($59) didn't quite gel, with the strong, pungent cheese too stark a contrast for the sauce. But  the baby red peppers stuffed with lamb, rice and pine nuts ($62) were as good on the tastebuds as on the eyes,  while the lamb meatballs with  a chilli tomato sauce ($62) were perfect for an evening most enlivened by its cold weather warning. Alfonso would have approved.

The old regal, like this reviewer, may not have been as happy with blaring, trashy music being pumped out at 7pm - apparently mandatory in LKF.

Dinner for two with wine and  two San Miguels ($35 in happy hour before 8pm) came to $615.



La Bodega