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Susan Jung

Annabel Jackson has written several books about Hong Kong, Macau and Vietnam, including Macau On A Plate, Vietnam On A Plate and Street Food Vietnam. The British writer's latest book, Taste Of Macau - Portuguese Cuisine On The China Coast, is a compilation of traditional recipes given to Jackson by Macanese professional chefs and home cooks. She writes that 'Macanese cooking is far more than a hybrid Portuguese-Cantonese cuisine; it reflects also the cuisines of Southeast Asia, most particularly those with whom Portugal enjoyed trading links'. Here is a selection of recipes from the book.

Gambas a Macau (king prawns with chilli and garlic)

8 large  fresh prawns

10 red bird's-eye chillies, finely chopped

4 cloves garlic, finely chopped

4 spring onions, finely chopped

A pinch of paprika

50ml Portuguese white wine

Olive oil, for frying

2 bay leaves, crumbled

25 grams butter

Salt to taste

Cut the prawn shells along the back then pull out and discard the dark intestinal tract but do not remove the shells. Put the prawns into a bowl.

Mix together the chillies, garlic, spring onions, paprika and wine. Pour over the prawns, toss and marinate in the fridge for about one hour.

Remove the prawns from the marinade. Strain the marinade, keeping both the liquids and solids. Set them aside in separate bowls.

Heat some olive oil in a pan and saute the prawns for about four minutes, or until the shells turn pink and the meat is cooked through. Set aside in a warm dish.

Heat the butter in a pan. Crumble the bay leaf into the strained chilli, garlic and spring onion mixture, then cook quickly in the butter over high heat. Add the reserved liquid to the pan and stir well until heated through. Add salt if necessary, then pour the sauce over the prawns and serve immediately. Serves four.

Arroz de Bacalhau (codfish rice)

Start preparing the bacalhau (salted cod) more than 24 hours in advance. To rid the bacalhau of excess salt, rinse it under cold, running water for about five minutes then soak in water for 24 hours, changing the liquid every four to six hours. Drain the fish, place it in a bowl and cover with boiling milk. Leave to soak for  two more hours,  remove the skin and bones from the fish and reserve them for the stock. Flake the bacalhau into small pieces.

500 grams bacalhau

400ml codfish stock

400 grams Thai fragrant rice, washed

1 onion, coarsely chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 bay leaf

Olive oil, for frying

? green  capsicum, roughly chopped

200 grams cabbage, finely shredded

2 tomatoes, roughly chopped

1 tsp tomato puree

100 grams chourico  (chorizo) or strongly flavoured ham, finely chopped

4 eggs, beaten

Salt and pepper to taste

To make the stock, pour 600ml water over the reserved skin and bones of the bacalhau. Bring to the boil then lower the heat and gently simmer for about one hour or until the water has reduced by about one-third. Strain.

Cook the rice in the stock until tender. Set aside and leave to cool. (The rice can be prepared the day before and refrigerated.)

Heat a little olive oil in a large pan and saute the onion, garlic and bay leaf over high heat. After about two minutes, add the bell pepper and cook for another minute. Add the cabbage, tomatoes and tomato puree and stir until the tomatoes begin to break down. Add the chourico and flaked bacalhau and mix thoroughly. Mix in the cooked rice, stirring until all the ingredients are combined and the rice is warmed through. Quickly stir in the eggs, check for seasoning and serve warm. Serves six to eight.

With these dishes, Jackson recommends serving two red wines, saying the Portuguese and Macanese traditionally take wine with fish. The Quinta do Cotto tinto 2001 and Quinta do Cotto Grand Escolha 2000 are made at the same winery but the  latter is made only in the best years. Jackson says both are young and spicy, with a good acidity that can handle the chillies and complex spices, but says it's good to compare the two to  appreciate why the Grand Escolha costs three times more.

Pudim de Sagu (sago pudding)

300 grams sago, soaked in plenty of water for at least 10 minutes

600ml whole milk

400ml coconut milk

100ml water

200 grams sugar

Pinch of salt

6 egg yolks, beaten

In a pan mix together the milk, coconut milk, water, sugar and salt and bring gently to the boil. Drain the sago and add to the boiling milk. Stir carefully for at least 10 minutes, or until the mixture is thickened and the sago pearls are opaque and tender.

Remove the pan from the heat and slowly stir in the egg yolks, taking care  they don't scramble. Cook over gentle flame, stirring,  for 10 more minutes, or until the eggs are cooked and the mixture is thick and comes away from the sides of the pan. Scrape the mixture into one large mould or 12 individual dishes and refrigerate until set. Serve chilled.

Taste Of Macau is available for $195 at local bookshops.

STYLING Leonie Van Hasselt

PICTURE Timon Wehrli



Traditional tastes