1 Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek
As the name might suggest, this wonderful art gallery was named after the famous Danish brewery. Founded by the brewer Carl Jacobsen (1842-1914), it includes some of the most important examples of art from ancient and modern times, including 35 works by Gauguin and several extraordinary Van Goghs. The building's focal point is the winter garden, where Danish sculpture and Roman sarcophagi stand amid palm trees under a great glass dome. A curvaceous sculpted marble figure lounges in a pool while 20-odd cherubic children clamber around her. Overlooking this idyllic scene is an award-winning restaurant (Dantes Plads 7, tel: [45] 3341 8141;
www.glyptoteket.dk).
2 Bohemian Quarter
It's hard to get lost while shopping in Copenhagen: the centre is small, and the department stores (Illum and Magasin) and great fashion outlets (particularly Norgaard pa Stroget) line the pedestrian street known as Stroget. But it is when you venture into the smaller side streets that things become really interesting. Pisserenden, or the bohemian district, is situated northwest of Gammel Torv, and many of the basements have been turned into studios by young fashion designers. Tone Barker offers flowing outfits in devore silk, jersey and satin (Vestergade 11); Uno specialises in comfortable clothing in a kaleidoscope of colours (Vestergade 13); and Laedersmeden (Vestergade 15) sells quality leather footwear. Vintage-clothing enthusiasts will also have a field day in this area. One of the best second-hand shops is Kobenhavn K (Studiestraede 32B), where everything is washed and ironed before being put on display. If you get peckish, Cafe Istanbul (Larsbjornstaede 25) sells pizza slices from as little as 12 kroner (HK$15.70), and the shawarma kebabs filled with slithers of marinated beef are a delight. Then, at the end of the day, have a bottle of cool ale in the low-key Elefanten og Musen (Vestergade 21), where an open fire, candles and a couple of wooden tables create hygge (comfort and cosiness) in the true Danish sense of the word.
3 Cycling
The Danes love cycling as much as the Chinese do. And, fortunately, Copenhagen is made for it. All the main streets have cycle paths, and there are special racks where you can pick up a free City Bike, as you would a shopping trolley. Your 20-kroner coin is refunded when you return the bike to any of the 120 stands around the city centre (
www.bycyklen.dk). Copenhagen is also a great place to buy a bicycle, and there are many unusual cycling shops in the bohemian quarter and Christiania. Sogreni has designs reminiscent of the Pashley and Dutch classics, although a special zinc coating and subtle paint finishes give them a modern edge. Irresistible details include flat mudguards in wood or various metals, handlebars with grips made of leather and rattan, and dinky bells made from a simple disc embossed with the company's logo. The company is working on the prototype for a wooden bicycle, and other experiments include a fur-clad behorned two-wheeler named the Mountain Goat (Sankt Peder Straede 30A;
www.sogreni.com). The Pedersen - the Bentley of the classic cycle world - can be found at Christiania Bikes in Christiania. The frame of this extraordinary bicycle is made from 14 metal tubes welded together to form 21 triangles, creating a kind of Eiffel Tower in motion. Meanwhile, peddling parents will love the bikes designed with a trailer in front for transporting children, or anything else (Refshalevej 2;
www.christianiabikes.com).