Hanoi

Reading Time:2 minutes

Published: 12:00am, 2 Mar 2004

Get there before the guidebooks do

Green Tangerine: Hanoi diners are already raving about a beautifully restored French villa in the Vietnamese capital's atmospheric Old Quarter. Its alfresco courtyard and colonial decor, complete with antique ceiling fans, are the perfect escape from the hurly-burly. It's also handy for dinner after the nearby Water Puppet show. Green Tangerine calls itself a 'gastronomic restaurant and cafe of European delights with Vietnamese spices'. Most would describe the food as fusion. Either way, it's delicious (48 Hang Be, Old Quarter, tel: [84] 4825 1286).

Restaurant Bobby Chinn: This funky restaurant and well-chilled lounge serves up great Euro-Asian food and groovy sounds, and is the only place you'll get a decent cocktail in town. The wine list, organised by grape varietals rather than origin, is excellent. And if you're lucky, you may catch an impromptu acoustic guitar performance from Chinn himself (1 Ba Trieu Street, Hoan Kiem district, tel: [84] 4934 8577; or go to www.bobbychinn.com).

Chesterton Apartments: The Sofitel Metropole Hanoi is considered the best place to stay. Although it's darling, it's also drab in parts. While its rooms are being redecorated, a good alternative is the Chesterton Apartments, near Hoan Kiem Lake and just around the corner from Bobby Chinn's. Set in a quaint old villa, these four small serviced apartments and studios are simply furnished but perfectly acceptable. There's no minimum-stay requirement, and the Metropole's legendary Bamboo Bar is only a 90-second

walk away. Studios cost $312 per night, one-bedroom apartments are $390 per night (4 Pham Su Manh, Hoan Kiem district, tel: [84] 4934 6000).

Art Vietnam Gallery: If you've dismissed Vietnamese art as being all rice bowls, saffron-robed monks and girls with conical hats, think again. At Art Vietnam Gallery, owner Suzanne Lecht has compiled a fine and compelling collection of modern Vietnamese art. The traditional three-storey gallery is an attraction in itself. Ask to see the photographic section. If you're a serious collector, Lecht can arrange visits to the artists. If you only visit one gallery, make it this one (30 Hang Than, tel: [84] 4927 2349; www.vietnamesefineart.com).