1 Cyclo Tour
Climbing into one of Phnom Penh's front-loading pedal cyclos is a great way to familiarise yourself with this fast-developing, former French colonial city. Your driver is tuned into the communal telepathy that holds the chaotic traffic together, so fear not. Unfurl a map and head towards the river, as mopeds ferrying entire families, plus the pet pig, buzz past you. Keep a camera handy because, as you tootle along Phnom Penh's tree-lined streets (your tourist identity hidden beneath the cyclo's hood), you'll come on all manner of local scenes. Cyclos can be flagged down in all tourist areas. Pay about US$1 per journey and tip extravagantly.
2 Central Market
The art deco Central Market, known locally as psah thami ('new market'), is an ideal first port of call. Built in 1937 with 30-metre-high vaulted ceilings, one of the largest domes in Asia and stained-glass windows, it's a temple to Cambodian commerce. It is also the ideal place to buy those crucial 'I've been to Cambodia' clothes: the red-chequered Khmer Rouge scarf, the Lara Croft khaki shorts, the Indiana Jones hat and the obligatory 'Danger - Landmine' T-shirt. Fashionistas should visit the second-hand section in the market's west wing, which is where all the clothes the western world gives to charity end up. It stocks everything from Iron Maiden T-shirts to Los Angeles Olympics sweatpants, and is both a museum of bad taste and a vintage clothing enthusiast's dream. Remember: haggle and keep smiling the whole time. Open daily from 7am to 5pm (corner of streets 67 and 136).
3 Foreign Correspondents' Club
With its perfect location and first-class restaurant, the FCC has become a local institution. Diplomats, correspondents and backpackers rub elbows and swap tales along the sweeping,