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The stately elegance of Li Yuan

Xie Weili was born in the United States to parents that had emigrated from Kaiping's Tangkou Township. After he made his fortune in the pharmaceuticals trade, his father ordered him to return home in 1926 and construct a garden.

Wanting to create something truly original, Xie took a team of engineers on a tour of the classical gardens of Beijing, Suzhou and Hangzhou to gather ideas. They also drew inspiration from the architectural styles of the US and Europe, Japan and Southeast Asia. The result is Li Yuan, a 19,000-square-meter compound that is composed of gardens replete with Chinese redbud, kapok, cypress, and other types of flora. There are bridges, archways, pavilions, an aviary, and walkways. Six yellow villas with green tile roofs housed different branches of the clan. A four-story communal watchtower provided refuge from bandits during raids. The entire complex took 10 years to complete.

The villas all have south-facing balconies. They were built largely of imported materials and incorporated many features that were a rarity in the Chinese countryside at the time. For example, water pumps and pipes were imported from the United States to provide indoor plumbing - even on the upper floors. Wall heaters were another luxury. There were hanging gas lamps, wall frescos, intricately carved wooden panels, and decorative frescos. Expensive rosewood furniture - in the Chinese style - was set with silver services imported from abroad. It was clearly a unique reflection of the East-West cultural values of the overseas Chinese of Kaiping.

Following extensive negotiations, Xie's widow, who lives in the United States, agreed that the Kaiping People's Government could renovate the property and manage it for 50 years. Ownership, however, will remain with Xie's heirs.

One interesting footnote: above the front doors, which were set in alcoves, were ingeniously placed holes. 'We didn't notice them at first,' an official at Li Yuan said. 'When we did, we didn't know what they were for. We finally realized that they could be used to drop rocks on the heads of unwanted visitors.' One can only imagine what else might have been dropped through those holes!

Kaiping Li Yuan Tourist Area, Tangkou Township, Kaiping

Tel: (0750) 2678888

WHERE TO EAT

The Tianshan Restaurant

serves up regional specialties.

Kaiping Li Yuan Tourist Area, Tangkou Townshi, Kaiping

Tel: (0750) 2677933

WHERE TO STAY

Ever Joint Hotel

2 Zhongyin Road, Kaiping

Tel: (0750) 2333333

POINTS OF INTEREST

Zili Village

Zili, or self-help, Village offers a rare glimpse into life in the Chinese countryside, from the geese that trot in little rows through the lanes and alleys to the grey brick farmhouses, lotus ponds and water buffalo. There is a small visitors' centre, a postal kiosk, a clinic, and an outdoor performance venue. Zili Village also contains the largest number of watchtowers open to visitors in one place. Most of them were built by returning overseas Chinese in the 1920s and 30s.

Kaiping Li Yuan Tourist Area, Tangkou Township, Kaiping

Tel: (0750) 2212580

How to Get There: From the Kaiping Yici Bus Terminus take the commuter heading for Tangkou Township.

Ruishi Watch Tower

Built in 1923, this nine-story watchtower is not only the tallest, it is also the most elaborate in Kaiping.

Jinjiangli, Xiangang Township, Kaiping

How to Get There: Take taxi from Kaiping Yici Bus Terminus, fare about 50 yuan.

Nanlou Watch Tower

Constructed in 1913, the Nanlou Watch Tower now sits at the centre of a memorial park honouring the seven martyrs who died defending their village from the Japanese during the Sino-Japanese War. It was renovated in 1999.

Chikan Township, Kaiping

Tel: (0750) 2613943

How to Get There: Kaiping city bus line no. 6 stops at the Nanlou Watch Tower.

Film Street

Not all of Kaiping's returning emigrants wanted to live in watchtowers. Chikan Township is home to what has come to be known as Little Europe, a stretch of two- and three-story European-style row houses combining architectural elements from East and West. Movie producers from Hong Kong and the mainland have often used it as a location for the filming of movies.

Chikan Township, Kaiping

How to Get There: Kaiping city bus line no. 6 stops at Chikan Township.

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