Space craft

Every workday, like clockwork, customers line up for seats at Ina Space Japanese restaurant. It's not popular for the decor - pale wood furniture, a wall with faux-stones printed on it and generic scenes of Japan in plain frames. The customers come for the reasonably priced Japanese dishes served in peaceful surroundings.

The problem here, as with most Japanese restaurants in Hong Kong, is the menu is so big it's difficult to choose. It includes sushi and sashimi, noodles, salads and cold dishes, grilled and fried foods, fruit drinks and desserts.

Udon noodles are fat and toothsome, served in a clear broth that's not too salty. The beef udon ($45) has a generous serving of tender meat, while tempura udon ($48) comes with tempura on the side so it doesn't go soggy. The agedashi tofu ($28) is somewhat bland, although the crisp exterior contrasts well with the soft bean curd. The sauteed mixed vegetables ($32) is an uninteresting mix of cabbage with a few bean sprouts and carrots. The best and most creative dish is assorted gyoza ($48) - two each of well-seasoned pork, spicy kimchee and finely minced, crunchy chicken tendon. For dessert try the light and creamy pumpkin ice-cream ($28) served on a quarter of small pumpkin.

A large lunch for two with one strawberry drink will set you back about $250.

Ina Space Japanese Restaurant, Sino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, tel: 3527 3080.